California Wine Country

Erica Stancliffe, Deodora Estate Vineyards winemaker

Fri, 10 Apr 2026 12:28:26 +0000

Erica Stancliff, Deodora Estate Vineyards winemaker, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. This is her fifth time as a guest on the show. Her very first time was this episode on February 20, 2019 and her last time was May 23, 2025 with Doug Mryglod and Judy Phillips, the owners of Deodora Estate Vineyards.

The Artemis II crew just splashed down off the coast of San Diego just this minute, as the show is being recorded live, so we toast with some great Riesling.

The wine they are tasting is the 2019 made by her friend Ashley Holland who was the first winemaker at Deodora, and who taught her that Riesling from Petaluma Gap could be gorgeous, aromatic, age-worthy and not sweet. Dan explains that you have to pick the fruit early enough to get the structure that will age well. The 2023 vintage represents Ashley passing the torch to Erica, who took over as winemaker that year at Deodora.

2023 was a cold year.

2023 was very cold on the Sonoma Coast, which made it a great vintage. Erica explains that the colder growing season is longer and that favors greater phenolic ripeness. Things need time to develop and if it is not so hot that you have to pick to keep the sugars from taking over, you have a chance for more interesting flavors. As the sugar comes in with ripeness, the acid drops. You don’t want too much of either one.

But the phenolic compounds will provide flavors that may fall into balance. You can add a small amount of water to manage the alcohol content at the right time. Erica compares that to putting a little bit of water in the sauce while you’re cooking it. There are other additives in the winemaker’s toolkit, like yeast, which some winemakers need, especially in a wet year. They actually use grape skins to feed the yeast. After the two Rieslings, they will taste the 2018 early cask Pinot Noir.

Erica was president of the Petaluma Gap wine growers’ alliance for a few years. In Petaluma Gap it is all about the wind. Dan explains that the Pacific Ocean has a wall of cold that is different than the Atlantic. The Petaluma Gap’s winds are persistent and not as strong as other places where geologic features increase the wind. The wind is regular but slow enough.

Primordial Buds

David Ramey believes that the Carneros is cool because of this same wind. Erica agrees. Every year, there are two vintages on the vines, the current year and the primordial buds of the next vintage. This causes some overlap in the influence of vintage years.

Dan tells a story from the book Wine and War that he read years ago. In 1939 the wine was very poor but then the Germans demanded all the wine so they sent the swill. Erica knows the story, they hid all the good wine and the caves under Dijon are still there.

They grow 5 clones of Pinot Noir. She compares clones to different color coats of the same breed of dog. They produce two Pinots, one they call early cask and another late cask. One is aged in wood for about 10 months. A late cask gets 14-16 months in the barrel. They can decide which direction the wines from the same vineyard can take. This late cask Pinot is also called over-vintage.

Erica explains why crystal glasses raise the aromatics, more than glass. The surface of crystal is more jagged, and this is believed to raise more aromatics when you swirl the wine in the glass. They are tasting the 2018 early cask Pinot Noir. Daedalus suggests it is like opening a cigar box and finding a blood orange with cloves stuck in it.

Clark Smith Double Gold Again

Fri, 3 Apr 2026 11:35:29 +0000

This episode marks another Clark Smith Double Gold win, on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is also Clark’s 12th time as a guest on the show. Clark Smith’s first CWC episode was this one in 2017 . It was one of our very first shows! Today we can say he has filled the case, with his 12th guest appearance. No other guest has been on the show as often as Clark Smith, and few of them have won as many awards. One of the wines they will taste today is a recent Double-Gold medal winner.

Clark begins by saying that he cut his teeth on European wine. That means wines that are balanced, that don’t have too much alcohol and will age well. “I don’t like to release them until they are ready and that means sometimes waiting 6 or 8 years in the barrel.” He doesn’t like woody wines. The barrels he owns are over 20 years old.

Double Gold for the Petit Verdot

Clark is one of the only winemakers who makes wine from Norton, a grape that was discovered in Virginia in the 1920s. Hardly anyone grows Norton. Clark also makes a lot of uncommon wines, “goofy stuff.” His Petit Verdot just won a Double Gold from the American Institute of Wine. It is a 2018 that he just bottled, after six and a half years in the bottle.

The problem with Zinfandel is that too many people buy it to drink right away. Some are ridiculously high in alcohol. The higher alcohol, the less the variety shows its signature. 17% alcohol is the equivalent of adding two tablespoons of vodka to your wine. Don’t do that. All of the flavor components are soluble in alcohol so the heat from the alcohol masks the aromas. Dan says that this is a problem for the heavy Napa Cabernets. They will be prune juice in 20 years and undrinkable, unlike this wine which is below 14% ABV.

Darryl Miller tastings

Fri, 27 Mar 2026 23:23:36 +0000

Dan and Darryl.

Darryl Miller is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, with wines from two Sonoma County wineries, Dehlinger Winery in the west county and Peterson Winery in Dry Creek Valley. He has been on CWC a few times, the most recent is this episode on July 18, 2025.

Darryl Miller is retired from the wholesale wine business. He works with the Dehlinger winery, assisting and advising them with their sales and marketing. He even used to live on that property in the 1980s. Darryl also works as an advisor to the Peterson family in Dry Creek Valley.

Dan Berger and Darryl Miller met when they were judges at a wine competition about 40 years ago. They found that they appreciated the same qualities of structure and balance in wine. For Dan, there is no such thing as a great wine that does not show good balance. There are unbalanced 100 point wines that are by definition, not great.

The Goldilocks Dilemma

Darryl agrees. They are either too heavy or light. They are not made well. Darryl describes the Peterson’s method as zero manipulation. They grow the right fruit the right way and then they don’t have to intervene. The wine being tasted is a 2024 “3V” made of three Italian white grapes whose names begin with V. Vernaccia 37%, with a kind of chalkiness to it. Darryl says it’s like Chablis. They also blend in some Vermentino which has some pineapple tropical fruit flavors. Then some Verdello, which has grapefruit rind flavors, similar to a Sauvignon Blanc.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

They make the three wines separately and then blend them. There is also a red blend, of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. They call it GSM or GMS, in order of appearance.

Blends Are Back

Blends are becoming popular again. This is because winemakers find that if they have Grenache and some other varieties, they can end up with a better wine by blending them. That is better than making single varietals which by themselves may not be as good as the blend.

Dan objects to blends that don’t tell you what is in the bottle. We want to know what is in it. It is not illegal to do, but does not help. The Peterson wines are very careful about telling the percentages in blends.

Ross Cobb, winemaker

Fri, 20 Mar 2026 22:23:31 +0000

Dan and Ross.

Winemaker Ross Cobb is our guest again today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He is the founder of Cobb Wines. Ross was on the show once before, on this episode in January of 2025.

Daedalus Howell remembers meeting Ross Cobb maybe 30 years ago, when they were both at the beginning of their careers. They begin by tasting a Chardonnay from 2023, which Dan describes as a nice cool vintage. The vineyard is in the eastern Sonoma County in the Sebastopol area. It was planted in the late 1990s. He got some Pinot Noir from the new owner, and he also got some Chardonnay.

He considers this to be one of the best Chardonnay vineyards around. The vines are mature, it gets 10% new oak, full malolactic fermentation, 22 months in barrel, and it’s not overly done. Dan Berger gives credit to all of those techniques, which gives it a combination or richness and tartness. The texture is rich and the aftertaste is delicate. It is only 12.5% ABV so it won’t knock you over.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Ross describes how his parents planted the vineyard in 1988-1989. He attended UC Santa Cruz where he designed his own program focussed on the living soil. Then he met all of his neighbors who had vineyards, names like Dehlinger and Rocchioli. Then he worked for Ferrari-Carano, Williams-Selyem and then for Flowers.

Next they taste a Riesling. Ross and Dan Berger both get their Riesling grapes from Cole Ranch. Both of them make it dry and Dan credits Ross for a great product aimed at Riesling purists – like Dan.

After the break they taste the Pinot Noirs. Ross Cobb says the 2023 Pinot Noir from Emmaline Ann Vineyard was his transformational vintage. He recalls the 2006 crop when he picked at 21.9 Brix. At first he was afraid that he had made a bad decision. But it turned out well, because of the secondary chestnut and spicy aromas that emerged. Dan Berger says 2006 was the greatest age-worthy vintage Sonoma County history. “This is astounding!” says Dan. He likes it because it was a cool year. Dan says Ross did well to pick early because the problem with a lot of wine is over-ripeness.

Dan observes that this year’s crop is dealing with 90-degree daytime highs in March. He also thinks that we will also have some cooler weather in the next month. Dan says the best weather report in the world comes rerom Abacela Winery. Greg Jones who has a PhD in climate science, publishes excellent meteorological reports on the western US. His reports are free online. Look for the Current Weather and Climate Report on this page.

The last tasting is the 2021 Doc’s Ranch Vineyard. It is another representation of Sonoma Coast style. They have 22 acres of vines at high altitude. It is risky, and can yield as little as half a ton per acre. Ross calls it a good place for ripening in September and October. This vintage was picked in late October.

Bob Cabral again on CWC

Fri, 13 Mar 2026 23:24:45 +0000

Dan, Daedalus and Bob.

Our guest is Bob Cabral again, on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, with four of his wines to taste and describe. He was one of our very first guests on this episode of June 21, 2017, a couple of years after he launched his own label, Bob Cabral Wines.

Since that first podcast appearance in 2017, Bob has been on California Wine Country many more times. His last time on CWC was June 14, 2024, with a double episode. In the first part of that show, Bob talked about his own wine company and about having just finished his 45th harvest. The other part of that show was with Mark Tchelistcheff, to talk about the film André the Voice of Wine.

Bob Cabral started in the wine business in 1980. The Judgement of Paris had happened in 1976 and it got a generation of future winemakers like Bob interested in wine. He studied winemaking at Fresno State, then found a job working at the bottom of the totem pole as a “cellar rat,” hoisting barrels, etc. Dan points out that most great careers in the wine industry have begun this way. The experience is critical and all of one’s knowledge is goes into the work and to teaching others.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

You Have to Clean and Scrub!

Dan took a two-day intensive wine course at UC Davis in 1976 and he had to be completely alert the whole time. The most important class he took was Winery Sanitation. Bob says it was also the first thing his professors at Fresno State told him. You can’t control mother nature, but you can control sanitation. You have to clean and scrub. A lot of Bob’s fellow students became famous and influential winemakers. It was a generation that caught the wave growth in the California wine industry.

The first wine they are tasting is Bob Cabral’s 2019 Wildflower Riesling. Daedalus notices tropical fruit flavors. It comes from two vineyards on the Sonoma Coast. Bob fermented it in a concrete amphora. He used native yeast and no barrel aging. Dan says this is what the Germans do, they age Riesling. Dan believes that great white wine age well, such as some of his Italian Arneis.

Supporting the Local Community

All of the proceeds from Bob Cabral Wines after operating expenses go to charity to support local causes. Dan appreciates how important that is for the community of Sonoma County. One out of every five people work in the wine industry, directly or indirectly.

Dan notices that in addition to the tropical fruit, it has “TDM” which is a ‘petroleum’ taste. TDN stands for 1,1,6-trimethyl-1,2-dihydronaphthalene. It gives a SLIGHT gasoline or kerosene aroma.

The traditional German Riesling bottle shape (“Schlegel” in German) will be either green, blue or brown, depending on the region. The shape of the bottle can be different from red wine bottles because the shoulders and the push-up bottom are there to to trap sediment. White wines don’t have sediment, which makes the flute bottle OK for it.

The next wine is the 2024 Chardonnay whose name is Acoustic Sunset. Neutral barrels give more flavors than mere stainless steel. Dan says this wine has an expressive personality. The secret to this one is there was no ML so the pH and the acid stayed the same. So this wine has all the pieces, which will merge and combine with one to three years in the bottle. He only made four barrels of this one.

Bob tells a lot of stories about famous musicians he has met, who were interested in his wine.

Two Pinot Noirs

The next two bottles to taste are Pinot Noirs. The wines have proprietary names, Troubador and Fillmore, and the fruit comes from several different vineyards. The Russian River one, Troubador, has all the features of RRV, says Dan. The last tasting is a library wine, a 2018 Pinot Noir called Fillmore. He calls it “a one-off” because he got some special fruit once only. He only made six barrels.

Drew Damskey

Fri, 6 Mar 2026 23:23:14 +0000

Daedalu, Drew, Daisy and Dan.

Our guests today are Drew and Daisy Damskey, who join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Drew’s father and Daisy’s husband Kerry Damskey has been on this show several times, most recently on this episode of March 1, 2023.

The first wine in our glasses is a 2023 Semillon, made by Drew Damskey for Palmieri Wines. This white wine grape is relatively common in Hunter Valley in Australia. It is also the grape used for white Bordeaux and is a common blending grape.

This Semillon comes from a vineyard planted in 1886 and is the second oldest Semillon vineyard in the world, called Monte Rosa vineyard. The vineyard is at the top of Moon Mountain which is above the town of Sonoma in the Mayacama range. Drew considers it to be ideal for Bordeaux varietals. They make about 75 to 100 cases of this wine per year. That 2023 Semillon has some of clean, crisp freshness of Sauvignon Blanc but with the weight, richness and texture of a Chardonnay.

Dan “Lay It Down” Berger

Dan would give it a minimum of three years of aging. He has 30-year-old Semillons that are still good. Dan contends that all wine ages, even whites. Dan opened a 1990 French Chardonnay the other day that was “just about perfect.” Speaking of perfection, Dan had a 1991 red wine from New Zealand, a Syrah, which Dan called perfect.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

The next wine tasted is Daisy’s Chardonnay, which Drew and his father made for Daisy. They were making only red wines for a long time but Daisy wanted them to make a white wine too. So father and son got some fruit and made the wine. Dan says it’s terrific, with great presence and acidity and a little bit of oak character. The fruit comes from Dorell vineyard. Drew explains that the wine undergoes Malolactic Fermentation,

David Ramey

Fri, 27 Feb 2026 23:23:58 +0000

David and Dan

David Ramey, founder of Ramey Wine Cellars, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. He has been on CWC before, but it was a while ago, on this episode in 2018 and again here in 2019.

The weather today is unseasonably warm, but it doesn’t affect Dan’s work. People tell him it seems he has the greatest job in the world. They think he just has to drink wine and write about it. But Dan actually drinks very little, when tasting and evaluating wine. The better the wine, the less of it you need to drink to appreciate high quality. “It’s not about volume, it’s about character,” says Dan. “Wine is food. It’s fermented grape juice and it goes with food. You might get a little relaxed but you you don’t drink wine to get drunk,” declares David. Dan reminds everyone, “Life’s too short to drink bad wine.”

Dan Berger declares that Chardonnay today is better than it has ever been, and he thinks David Ramey can explain why. David thinks that the Chardonnay producers went down the wrong path, when rich, hedonistic wines, fruit bombs, were popular. Robert Parker was an influential wine critic and he liked that style. David Ramey’s Chardonnays represent a reversal of that trend and an appeal to wine lovers who know that Chardonnay can do much more than those big buttery fruit bombs that don’t age well.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

MS in Enology

David Ramey describes his pathway into the profession of winemaking. He grew up in Sunnyvale, a schoolmate of Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak. He attended UC Santa Cruz from 1969-1973, when the campus was brand new. He worked as a waiter where he also had the chance to taste wine. He thought he would go and teach English in Colombia, but he never made it there. He was driving from Mexicali to Hermosillo and one day he describes a coup de foudre, French for a lightning strike, when he realized he should make wine. It’s something that people like, it’s not bad for the environment, it’s an aesthetic statement, lot to like about it.

So he applied to UC Davis in enology. He had to take all his college level math and science courses at San Jose State before he could start the major. He graduated with a Master of Science in Enology. Several of his fellow students became famous winemakers.

They are tasting one of David’s Chardonnays, which is not chilled. “Chardonnay is the red wine of whites.” Both whites he brought are 2015s and the reds are both 2013s. Both combine richness, strong acidity and good structure.

Claret

David went to France after he graduated. “I’m a classicist,” he says. He wanted to go where people have been making wine for a very long time, to learn how to do it. He ended up working in Bordeaux. Then he worked a harvest in Australia. They processed 37,000 tons of grapes that time.

Next they taste the Claret. That name is protected now but David says they can still use it, they are grandfathered in. It is a generic British English term for a Bordeaux wine. The French claimed it, despite the fact that there is no place named Claret. It’s just a generic word, but it was ceded to the EU in trade negotiations. Ramey also treademarked two varietal blend names for themselves. Their Left Bank Blend is a Cabernet based blend. Template is another name, modeled on the Right Bank, so it is Merlot based. This is all with Sonoma County grapes. Dan adds that the name Ramey on the label indicates a higher level of quality, by itself.

Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines

Fri, 20 Feb 2026 23:23:36 +0000

Dan and Matt

Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines is back on California Wine Country. Matt has been on the show before, on this episode last summer.

Dan Berger is back after taking last week off to attend the Anderson Valley White Wine festival, which we previewed on a few recent CWC episodes. He was in charge of the Riesling table with 12 different ones. They will hold a Pinot Noir festival in about five weeks, which we will hear about too.

Matt Duffy was on CWC once before, last summer. Vaughn Duffy Wines specializes in single vineyard Pinot Noir. Their wines have captured many awards. Today Matt has brought four Pinot Noirs, all from different vineyards in the Petaluma Gap AVA. They are all from 2024. There are 3 vineyard designates, and one called Petaluma Gap which is a blend of Pinot Noir all from within the AVA.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

This wine has characteristics of a Petaluma Gap Pinot Noir. A Russian River Valley Pinot Noir has a little more raspberry and strawberry flavors. This one has a little more rustic character that reminds Dan a little more of Burgundy than one from RRV. Matt notices that the wines from Petaluma Gap makes purple, darker fruit compared to the bright reds from the Russian River Valley. The wind keeps things cooler in the growing season which lengthens the ripening season and limits the yields.

Pinot Noir: a delicate balance

Dan describes Pinot Noir as being on the edge between being too light or too heavy. A winemaker has to be careful through harvest and production, “…because if you try to get too much or too little (from it), it either lacks something or has too much of something.” Daedalus finds Pinot Noir sometimes too dark or too light but this one is “just right.” Dan says you can run the risk of making an overripe wine anywhere with any varietal, but there is more forgiveness in some varieties and in some regions. If you harvest Cabernet a little too late, you can get away with it. If you harvest Pinot Noir a little bit too late in some regions, “…you’re going to get an odd configuration of characteristics.” And those aren’t necessarily a benefit to anyone.

The first wine they taste is the blend, of Sangiacomo’s Roberts Road vineyard and Uberroth vineyard, both in the Petaluma Gap. Later in the show they will taste single vineyard Pinot Noir bottlings from each of those vineyards, plus one from Secret Hill vineyard. 🍷

Miro Cellars

Fri, 13 Feb 2026 23:23:15 +0000

Miro Tcholakov is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell, and Melissa Galliani is also in the studio today. He operates Miro Cellars and is also winemaker for Trentadue Wines. Miro has been on CWC before, on this episode back on September 9, 2020. and his last appearance was this episode on April 5, 2024.

Miro has brought a Chardonnay, the only Chardonnay he makes now. The vineyard belongs to the De Loach family. It was given “incomplete” malolactic fermentation, so it doesn’t have too much “popcorny” flavor. This wine won a gold medal at the SF Chronicle competition.

Miro grew up in Bulgaria. Sometimes he refers to it as “way back east.” After college in Bulgaria, he came to the US on a student visa. He had good grades in biology and, also needed to do two years of military service. His degree was agronomy engineering, specialized in viticulture. Then in 1990 he won access to an exchange program to the US. He chose viticulture and he was the only one of the six who went to the west coast. He worked a standard harvest internship at Dry Creek Vineyards. The night before he was supposed to leave, they asked him to stay, to cover for an injured colleague. He rose through the ranks and nine years later he took a full time winemaker job at Trentadue.

When he was growing up in Bulgaria, his grandfather made wine. They made about 1000 bottles of wine per year.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Pinot Noir too

Next they taste the Pinot Noir. Miro doesn’t usually make Pinot Noir. He was known for making Petite Syrah and Zinfandel, but he wanted to try it just to say he can do that too. He gives credit to the work in the vineyard. “I am in opportunistic buyer…” of Pinot Noir grapes. It won a double gold medal from the SF Chronicle competition. Daedalus tastes dry cherry, old books, dustiness. Miro thinks maybe it’s from the oak or the terroir. It’s supple and round. It might handle about five or six years of aging. Daedalus’ judgement: “Super drinkable, dangerously drinkable.”

Later the discussion turns to the wine market and everyone’s opinion of how this downturn looks from their point of view. Aurelio Aguilar who is twenty-six, speaks for his generation. He suggests that winemakers have an important opportunity to get young people familiar with experiences like wine tasting. Then Miro tells his story of how the cave woman invented wine.

Next they taste the Grenache named after his daughter, Cuvée Sasha. He started making it when she was born, 23 years ago, and for the last 10 years the grapes have come from the same vineyard on the shore of Lake Mendocino. Grenache is a good wine for any occasion, sort of like Pinot but spicier, and can have a hidden bite of tannin when younger. It’s fruity but can also be earthy. It is easy to pair with anything, Miro suggests grilled salmon or tuna. It can benefit from chilling, too. Melissa suggests bringing Grenache as a hostess gift, for it novelty and quality.

Affordable Luxury

“You can make high quality wines at a reasonable price. It’s possible. I’ve been doing it for twenty-three years.”

Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong

Fri, 6 Feb 2026 23:23:23 +0000

Dan Berger, Chris O’Gorman and Daedalus Howell.

Chris O’Gorman and Chris Sawyer are our guests on California Wine Country, to present Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong Vineyards on Feb. 12. Chris O’Gorman is in the studio and Chris Sawyer joins us on the phone. Chris O’Gorman has been on CWC before, his last appearance was this episode last August. It was actually Daedalus Howell’s first CWC episode as full time host of the Drive.

Dan has brought one of the wines he will be pouring at the Riesling table next week at the Anderson Valley White Wine Festival on February 14th. The 2021 Smith-Madrone Riesling is a dry wine but not as dry as some of the really bone dry types. Dan likes it with Thai food. The winery is releasing their 2022 Riesling now. This is the same hillside where Stony Hill winery also makes Riesling on an adjacent property.

Chris Sawyer is with us on the phone from Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. He is there to judge the American Fine Wine Competition. It is one of the largest invitational wine competitions in the US. It is taking place at Florida International University.

Pour and Explore at Rodney Strong Vineyards

Chris O’Gorman describes Pour and Explore which is taking place next Thursday night, February 12, from 5:30 to 7:30 PM at Rodney Strong Vineyards. Pour and Explore will feature Bordeaux varietals, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, by themselves or blended. Dan enjoys the company, since there are winemakers pouring the wine, so they can answer his questions.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

The first tasting today is a Rodney Strong Bordeaux blend named Symmetry. Rodney Strong has been producing Symmetry since 1996. Single varietal wines are not as common in France as they are here. They realized that Chateau St. Jean provided a model of a successful blended red. This Symmetry wine is a 2021 vintage. The label shows it is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon. With other wines being released at 2 and 3 years old, this wine is different. Cabernet Sauvignon can’t be too young. Chris O’Gorman describes the qualities that each of the five grapes bring to the blend.

Next they taste a wine from Alexander’s Crown, one of the most historic red wines in Sonoma County. The first Alexander’s Crown vintage was 1974. This is the first single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma County.

Chris Puppione, Puppione Family Wines

Fri, 30 Jan 2026 23:23:07 +0000

Chris Puppione from Puppione Family Wines is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. The last time Chris was on the show was this episode last summer, on June 6, when he spoke to Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.

Chris has brought four wines that Dan describes as “fabulous” and they are low-alcohol wines. Dan says Chris has had an opportunity to explore the lower-alcohol market. Chris says that people are just looking for flavor and “what’s old is new” and Dan notes that higher alcohol takes flavor away from the variety. Low alcohol is not less wine but just less noise. It takes away from nuances that they prefer to bring forward in their wines. There is a white and three reds.

First, Dan’s cellar wine is the 2024 Bahl Fratty Riesling, which he will pour at the VIP event at the Anderson Valley White Wine Festival. “It’s coming out of its shell,” but in three or four years it will be really ready. They will also pour Vermentino and other whites. Dan’s table is all Riesling. It’s at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds, February 14. Tickets are $160 and are all-inclusive, with beverages and food.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Friulano

The Puppione label is blue, which is supposed to discourage spontaneous sales. Well, not always, says Daedalus, tell that to Blue Nun. Chris wants to make “Tuesday night wines” not Friday night wines. Festa was his grandmother’s name, so he makes a Festa Bianca and Festa Rossa. The white is Friulano, which means “from Friuli” which is in north-eastern Italy. He got the vines from a high mountain vineyard in California. He uses a combination of stainless steel and barrels. His children press the grapes with their feet. The alcohol is just 12.4%. Compared to those othe heavy wines that come in around 15% or 16%, this is refreshingly light. It is just a 2023 and it will still evolve.

“This is something I do with my wife and kids for fun,” says Chris. Chris made his first wine to honor the birth of his daughter. He made it in secret. He is grateful to have help from many friends in the business. Everyone agrees that this camaraderie and willingness to help other is typical of Sonoma County people.

Juventus Cuvée

Next they taste a red wine. It is their Juventus Cuvée. His family is from a village outside of Torino in Italy, and one of the home teams is Juventus, but also Juventus is the goddess of youth. This is a blend of Syrah and Cab. He used stainless steel and captured a little effervescence. It’s in a clear bottle and he suggests chilling it. It reminds Dan of the simple wines you find in the back roads in France. He smells “fruit, not adorned…” This is a young wine that doesn’t need any maturation. After 2 years it is still lively and fruity. Dan says that Syrah and Cab are compatible varieties and compliment each other.

Block Party with Julie Pedroncelli

Fri, 23 Jan 2026 23:23:33 +0000

Dan, Daedalus and Julie

Julie Pedroncelli from Pedroncelli Winery is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She has been on the show before, the last time was this episode of last January.

Dan describes the current slowdown in the wine business. The other times that the wine market went soft, there were one or two causes, but today there are several causes. But the benefit to the consumer is, the longer it takes to sell the wine, the more the wine improves.

The Pedroncelli family has owned the property for almost 100 years. The vineyards are very carefully farmed and they take great care making their portfolio of wines. “Four generations and still going strong,” says Julie. Her grandparents put down roots in Dry Creek Valley outside of Geyserville. They bought a property in 1927 that had a vineyard and a shuttered winery. The previous owners were making wine as far back as the early 1900s.

Their winemaker Montse Reese just completed her 18th harvest at Pedroncelli. They produce mostly Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc and a few red wine blends. Her father is 94 and retired just a few years ago.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel

Julie has brought the “block party” today, with single-vineyard wines that represent certain blocks in the Pedroncelli vineyards. She has brought a Sauvignon Blanc, which they will start with, before moving on to the Zinfandel and others. “White wine is always good to start with.”

This Block 11 reserve Sauvignon Blanc, vintage 2024, is not their regular production. It is a special designation reserve. Block 11 showcases the grassier, herbaceous side of SV and Montse Reese thought the neutral oak would bring out that side of SV without overdoing it. Daedalus detects a bit of Pez candy flavor, which Dan thinks is like green mint.

Next is a Block 13 Zinfandel from 2023 which was a cool year. This is a little spicy, with a bit of black pepper flavors, and a raspberry note that Dan says is a characteristic of Dry Creek Valley Zins. Block 13 has had Zinfandel grown on it for over 100 years. It is the third generation of Zinfandel vines on the property. Some of the vines are 100 years old but they have replanted twice. It was Zinfandel, then Petit Syrah, then back to Zin. Montse found that this block stands out and merits a single-vineyard bottling. They used bud wood from the Rockpile vineyard for the planting and Montse also uses a yeast that was developed at Rockpile. Julie describes its character as feminine, not high in alcohol, very delicate in its fruit, “…it doesn’t hit you over the head, it’s not a fruit bomb, it’s more like a light spice bomb,” says Julie.

Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah

The Cabernet Sauvignon needs to breathe, decanted it would be a little more open. The long finish is not oak, though, it’s all the flavors you want in Cab without the other flavors like too much Oak.

Dan Berger will be opening a 1966 Louis Martini Barbera next week for a special occasion. There are two Masters of Wine candidates from Taiwan who are taking a course at the Flamingo. Dan has met them and they expressed interest in an old California wine. Dan has one of two remaining bottles. He will open one for the students at Ca’ Bianca in Santa Rosa, along with two or three other wines from the era.

The fourth wine they taste today is the Pedroncelli Syrah. Dan says he has never heard of anything like this before. It is a lower-alcohol Syrah, about 12%. This one was earlier harvested, to make a lighter style of red with lower alcohol. They picked two or three weeks before they otherwise would have.

Don Chigazola with Colle Ciocco from Montefalco

Fri, 16 Jan 2026 23:23:01 +0000

The book that Dan and Don agree is the best one on this subject.

Don Chigazola has brought Colle Ciocco wines to taste and review with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Don’s company Chigazola Merchants imports selected small lots of Italian wines made by small family-owned wineries. He travels to Italy regularly to find wines and to meet everyone involved. Don Chigazola has been on California Wine Country several times, the last time was this episode on June 13, 2025, with wines from the Alto Adige region.

They begin by tasting a very dry Trebbiano. It’s a white wine popular in Italy but not widely known in this country.

This Trebbiano is one of the wines Don has brought today, all from the same producer, which is one of his favorites, the Spacchetti family in Montefalco, Umbria. Their label is Colle Ciocco, which translates to “Choko Hill” in English.

Don Chigazola founded Chigazola Merchants to travel in Italy looking for wines to import. They started importing from the Spacchetti family after he got to know them about four years ago. They only make about 5000 bottles per year. The wines that Don chooses for Chigazola Merchants are combinations of a variety and a region that are common in Italy but not well-known here. Don looks for those varieties that will surprise and delight his customers.

Dan Berger remarks on a wine that was a 2022 Sancerre which is made with Sauvignon Blanc and it was sweet, not dry as he expected. Sweetness sells, apparently, according to Dan.

Trebbiano Spoletino

There are different clones of Trebbiano in this wine which make it unique. Trebbiano Spoletino is grown around the village of Spoleto in Umbria. Don describes it as very clean and dry, flavors of apricots, peaches, stone fruit. Dan notices good minerality that makes it go well with food. The only way to get a California Chardonnay to have any acidity at all is to chill it down. We all agree that’s a cheap trick and beneath us.

Don Chigazola has run Chigazola Merchants for about 13 years now. He has seen the shift in demand from Italian reds to white wines. So he began to favor white wines about six years ago. Now his portfolio of Italian white wines is very strong and unique among American retailers. Some of Chigazola Merchants’ wine club members are local wine producers. They are eager to taste a wide range of production. A lot of his members have joined after they got to know the wines from their friends.

Grechetto

The next wine is a Grechetto, another Italian white grape grown around Orvieto and near the town of Todi. The Spacchetti family has blended a couple of clones of Grechetto with about 15% Viogner, which gives it a soft finish on the palette and “rounds the edges.”

The third wine tasted today is a red blend, called Montefalco, which is 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino and 15% Merlot. Dan notices this difference: in California, we make wines that are big and rich and bold, for reasons “I don’t wanna talk about,” ok fine. But he finds them tiresome. Contrast that with what these Italian wines accomplish. “It is not very ripe, only just ripe.”

Sagrantino

Then they have a Sagrantino from Montefalco. This is a 2019. Sagrantino was first a sacramental wine, and was made to be sweet. But it is now a dry wine because tastes have changed. Don explains that the Spacchetti family ages it for two years in barrels and then a minimum of five years in the bottle. With all that it still feels young.

There are over 400 varieties of Italian wine, so Don says that nobody can claim to be an expert, there is too much to know. But Dan Berger begs to differ and cites Ian D’Agata and his book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy. Dan admires the author as an expert because of his book. Don actually knows Ian and agrees about his level of knowledge. Don describes himself as a student of wine.

Anderson Valley Int’l White Wine Festival

Fri, 16 Jan 2026 23:22:05 +0000

Dan, Daedalus & Courtney

Courtney De Graff, from the Anderson Valley International White Wine Festival joins Dan Berger & Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. She is the executive director of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association.

The International White Wine Festival is coming this February 14th through 16th. Courtney was on California Wine Country at this same time last year, for the previous annual festival.

Courtney De Graff, of the Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association talks to Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell about Anderson Valley White Wine Festival. It is happening on February 14-16, with the 14th being the big tasting day.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Dan remembers when this was called the Alsatian Festival, but they changed the name to include more wines from other places. Dan Berger will be there this year at a special Riesling table. There will also be Gewürtztraminer, Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Chenin Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. Dan likes the festival because white wines are easier to identify by their scent.

The 17th Annual Festival

This is the seventeenth annual festival. It has had a few different names and rebrandings.There are 64 members in the Association and not all of them produce Alsatian varietals. Dan notices a worldwide evolution in white wine tastes. There are grape varieties showing up today that were not produced in great volumes, because we lacked the technology to make the wine.

Anderson Valley is eager to do a white wine festival because white wine is at the forefront of the current evolving trends in wine popularity.

The Anderson Valley is an hour north of Healdsburg, on the way to the town of Mendocino. festival is on Hwy 128. Visitors either say overnight or make a day trip. Saturday is the grand tasting from 11 to 3, then on Sunday is winery open houses. They will open their doors for food, wine and entertainment.

There are 44 wineries booked this year, the largest contingent ever. They also have wineries from all over the world, including Swiss, German, Italian, French and Mexican wines. It is held at the Booneville Fairgrounds.

Casey Graybehl, Grenachista Wines

Fri, 9 Jan 2026 23:23:05 +0000

Dan, Daedalus and Casey Graybehl.

Casey Graybehl from Grenachista Wines joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. This is Casey’s first time on the show, although we mentioned Grenache as recently as last September on this episode with Oded Shakked of Longboard Vineyards. Grenachista Wines specializes in Grenache, and makes several types and styles of this one varietal.

Before getting to Casey Graybehl’s Grenache wines, Dan Berger has brought another cellar dweller this week. It is a 2004 Rkatsiteli from Dr. Konstantin Frank, in the Finger Lakes region of upstate New York. It is a French grape that has been grown in Eastern Europe for decades.

Asked why he chose Grenache, Casey explains that he needs guardrails, to constrain himself. By focussing on his favorites, he can run a small operation and produce a high quality product. Dan explains that Grenache is also an important blending wine. The same is true of Syrah. You need some Grenache to make a Rioja from Tempranillo grapes. There is also the GSM blend, Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Instead of making wines for other people’s tastes, he makes wine for his own palette.

The Holy Trinity of Grenache

Casey describes the holy trinity of Grenache as Grenache Gris, Grenache Noir and Grenache Blanc. They taste a Grenache Gris and then a Grenache Rosé. Dan and Casey agree that their favorite varietal for Rosé is Grenache. “It’s a fruit salad in a glass,” says Daedalus. Dan says the tropical notes are fermentation flavors called terpenes that will be gone in six more months. “This is not one to age,” says Dan.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

If you’re going to limit yourself to one grape, Grenache is the one to do, says Casey, because of its versatility. Next they open the North Coast Grenache Noir. The grapes come from Sonoma Valley, Napa Carneros and Mendocino, which qualifies it for the North Coast AVA. Dan notices pomegranate and cranberry flavors. Casey says some nice licorice and leather flavors will come on with aging.

Dan finds that Grenache is more sensitive to its soil and vintage than many other red wine grapes. Pinot Noir can be a headache but Grenache can be more consistent. They call it a blender but it is really a base, making up 60% of blends, such as Gigondas.

Barry Herbst with Sparkling Wines

Fri, 19 Dec 2025 23:24:15 +0000

Barry Herbst is here to talk about sparkling wines for the holidays on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Barry has been on CWC many times before. For the comparison, here is a show where he brought sparkling wines, recorded on Dec. 29, 2023. He is the wine buyer at Bottle Barn.

First, Dan recaps part one, which is here on its own podcast episode page, a detailed talk about Gamay Beaujolais. Then, right here, Dan and Barry conduct a tasting and discussion of four very fine sparkling wines that Barry has brought, all of which are at Bottle Barn.

Late December is one of the peaks of wine purchasing season. The first peak usually comes at Harvest Fair, that and the Press Democrat Competition before that, “gets things going.” From the end of September it starts, then pops again for the holidays. Also people stock up for June events.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Bottle Barn also does flash sales and rare wine sales on their website. Online sales account for about a third of their business now. They didn’t even have a website until 2019 but now their website is first class. Dan says it’s maybe the best wine sales site in the country. It was good that they did it just before Covid. The bottle barn site is well built and works great. Barry remembers six weeks when four people did nothing but data entry, to get the site started. They had 6000 SKUs.

Cremant d’Alsace Rosé

Sparkling wines are the order of the day. So they pop a cork and taste Bottle Barn’s best-selling sparkling wine of all time. Cremant d’Alsace made 100% with Pinot Noir, so it’s Rosé. Bottle Barn sells 600 cases per year of it. It sells for $17.99. Dan says it tastes drier than it did before. You can really taste the Rosé character and the aftertaste is “clean as a whistle,” says Dan.

Cremant means sparkling in French. Sparkling wines can only be called “Champagne” if they come from the province of that name. So there are Cremant wines named for their region, such as Cremant d’Alsace. That naming rule pertains to sparkling wines from Italy, which are called Vini Spumanti or Prosecco, depending on the region and the varietals. Cava are Spanish sparklers. The new British sparkling wines might earn a new name.

Seppi

The next tasting is Seppi, a California product. Mostly Pinot Noir, beautiful balance, says Dan. Intense pink wine flavors with more acidity than he expected, and rounded and more full bodied.

Dan also mentions a grower champagne and Barry actually has one to taste, Lalarge Peugeot. They grow everything biodynamically. Barry notes that they have kept their prices reasonable compared to their neighbors there, in the heart of Champagne. There is more Pinot Meunier planted in Champagne than Pinot Noir or Champagne grapes. Pinot Meunier is a red wine grape but lighter than Pinot Noir.

Gamay Beaujolais with Dan Berger

Fri, 19 Dec 2025 23:23:41 +0000

Melissa Galliani and Dan Berger.

Dan Berger takes some time to explain Gamay Beaujolais today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Later in the show, Barry Herbst from Bottle Barn will be in, to talk about sparkling wines they have in the store for the holidays. That portion of the show has its own podcast episode, right here.

Dan has brought a Beaujolais from 2023 from a California winemaker who moved to France. He got tired of trying to make European style wines in California. Johnathan Pey made Pinot Noir in Marin County and made a Cabernet in Napa called Textbook. He decided to make a break from California and move to France. This wine is his French production, Domaine Johnathan Pey.

Beaujolais ain’t no “Boo-jo-lay”

Johnathan Pey bought two cru vineyards in Beaujolais. Gamay Noir au jus blanc is the full French name of the grape. Beaujolais is generally an unpretentions wine, easy to drink and not expensive. Pey wanted to apply modern winemaking techniques to grapes from the old plantation. He bought the vineyard about five or six years ago and has been tending the vines personally. Dan says this vintage is starting to show depth and intensity above the average for Beaujolais. 13% alcohol. The color is intense and suggests a highter ABV but that’s not Beaujolais.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Usually, Beaujolais is just to open and drink. But some of the Cru Beaujolais will benefit from a couple of years in the bottle. John found that the other producers in France were young, and he is teaching them California techniques that are ahead of the game.

This wine is full of fruit, but also an intensity, a Syrah-like aftertaste. Dan thinks maybe this wine will age in two days once opened. “Way more interesting than a typical Beaujolais.” It doesn’t have any oak, there was no barrel aging.

Garry Brooks, Brooks Note Winery

Fri, 12 Dec 2025 18:23:30 +0000

Garry Brooks from Brooks Note Winery in the Petaluma Gap is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode in February of this year.

They begin by tasting the 2023 Chardonnay. It started five weeks late and they didn’t think anything was going to ripen. These grapes are usually picked mid to late September but this time, it was mid October.

“This is a brilliant wine, it has so much personality. It’s crisp and delightful with food, light and only 13% alcohol,” says Dan. There is a chicken truck that parks near the winery that cooks chicken with this wine and herbs. “This is a Chardonnay that doesn’t have that big rich buttery soft center.” It’s a wine made for food. It comes from 3 different vineyards, one in Sebastopol Hills, one in the Santa Rosa plain and one in Petaluma Gap.

Dan says it is round and crisp. There is only one eighth done in oak barrels. That small amount is just a kiss of spice and sweetness. Garry says Chardonnay is risky when it goes through a crazy transformation when being made. If you try to bottle it too soon, it’s bland, says Dan.

Bung and Roll

If you stir Chardonnay you can gain and lose different flavors. There is no stirring involved here, they are just waiting. Dan says this was Jim Clendenon’s technique that he called “bung and roll.” He would fill the barrels with Chardonnay, seal it with a bung, roll the barrel away and never touch it.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling. Sip the difference!

Next he has brought a couple of their single vineyard wines. There is one vineyard in southern Petaluma Gap, in Marin County, near Marin French Cheese. It’s cold and windy there. You can’t do barbeque in Petaluma Gap because the wind blows hard at 4:00 every day. As the wind speed goes up it slows down photosynthesis so you get a longer growing season. The coastal influence keeps it cool, so there are more floral notes and a lighter style to the wine.

Dan describes the Azaya vineyard that grew this Pinot Noir. A really good wine has personality and if you use the word great, it has to have many good things about it, such as this one.

They just did their first ever Wine Stroll in Petaluma. All the folks in Petaluma who sell wine, retailers, they sold 400 tickets. Petaluma has a great food scene and the wine scene is growing with the whole city, as an attractive district. They have live music tonight and live comedy tomorrow night. There is Trivia Night on Saturday, this weekend too.

Panther Ridge Pinot Noir

The next wine is the Panther Ridge Pinot Noir, also from the Petaluma Gap, but up on Sonoma Mountain. The vineyard is all volcanic soil, pumice and basalt, that gives dark flavors and good structure to the wine.

Garry majored in Political Science at Duke and was in the Navy, in San Diego, France, Spain and northern California. By the time he was 23 he had tasted wine from all over the world. He was working in Hawaii, for a while selling advertising for the Honolulu Weekly. While going to go to the University of San Diego for an MBA and he met someone who said she was going to UC Davis for Viticulture and Enology. The very existence of such a degree was a surprise. Well, the passion became a job in 2004. He left a well-paying job as an IT project manager in the city and started the winery. All of his business skills carry over to winemaking in ways that help him ensure quality.

The Wier Vineyard Pinot retails for $60. A 2018 is for sale now, already aged for you. This is already aged enough to be in the ‘right spot.’

Brooks Note is open daily from 11-6.

Brooks Note is open daily from 11-6. Every Friday they have music from 5-7. Tomorrow (Sat. Dec. 13, 2025) the comedy show is at 8pm, there are tickets available on the website. They have Trivia next Saturday, Dec. 20. They only send ONE email per week. Weir Vineyards has a waiting list. He gets the fruit because his daughter went to school with the owner’s granddaughter and he pulled family friendship strings to get the fruit.

Garry understands that he has to do things to attract attention for his wines. It all came together for him in Petaluma when he found his location. They bought the place in 2019 and it was their covid project to fix it up. Their capacity is up to 150 people for private events.

They have a couple of events, coming up. Dan Durkin the lead singer of Petty Theft, is performing. Bring a can of food to pass on to the homeless center, Friday Dec. 19, 2025. On Feb. 12, 2026 it’s a bigger event, stay tuned to California Wine Country and watch Brooks Notes Wines for more about that.

Bettina from Laurel Glen Vineyard

Fri, 5 Dec 2025 23:23:56 +0000

Bettina Sichel, the owner of Laurel Glen Vineyard is back in the studio as our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She was on the show once before, on this episode last May.

Bettina has brought a new wine that Dan is tasting for the first time. This is a 2025 Gruner Veltliner from a historic vineyard on Sonoma Mountain, an unusual grape from a historic vineyard. It is most associated with Austria, usually made dry and has a natural richness. It is not as austere as a Riesling can be. Dan suggests a little bit of green tea component in the grape, and some mineral flavors like slate. It is dry and rich at the same time.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

The Steiner Vineyard on Sonoma Mountain has two acres of Gruner Veltliner. Dan remembers the Galen Glen Vineyard in Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania also makes a great Gruner Veltliner. Dan appreciates that Laurel Glen Vineyard uses a screw cap. Bettina says that all their white wines are bottled with screw caps.

Dan explains that screw caps work great but with red wines of a certain price, people just expect a cork. Recently some screw cap producers have developed different screw caps that completely seal or that allow a little bit of air. You can choose the cap that matches your intentions as a winemaker. If a wine has to sit on the shelf for a long time, the cap protects the wine better than a cork might do.

They are tasting the Laurel Glen Cabernet, which is blended with about 20% Merlot, to soften it.

Shared Notes Wines, plus Coffee too

Fri, 21 Nov 2025 23:25:19 +0000

Bibiana Ravé

Bibiana Ravé, winemaker and co-owner of Shared Notes, joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country.

Bibana has been on CWC twice, first on this episode of August 29, 2019, to talk about her own wine brand Alma de Cattleya. Then, on April 5, 2023, Bibiana and her husband Jeff Pisoni were on this episode, to talk about Shared Notes.

Bibiana grew up in Medellin, Colombia and studied enology in France. They are tasting a wine from Shared Notes, a winemaking project that she shares with her husband Jeff Pisoni. It is a blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. The blend is a bit different from year to year, depending on how the Semillon tastes.

French Winemaking in California

Bibiana practices French winemaking techniques in California. She describes winemaking as a personal experience. During her time in France, she stayed there and focussed on French wines only. She didn’t even study Italian or Spanish wines.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

Her wines are “bone dry” with no residual sugar. They are on the low-to-middle alcohol level. She believes that it is truly all in the vineyard. They work with great vineyard sites. Their Sauvignon Blanc comes from the Ridge Vineyard, which Dan says is one of the best. The vines are 60 years old and have a low yield per acre. She ways that she could not make the wine that she does, if the growers were not as committed as she is. Dan Berger says this wine shows the ancient style with all the dry flavors that it requires. “Very few people in this world make wine that you want to open when your child is 21.” These wines will support 20 years in the bottle.

[12:38] Dan Berger: “Most people don’t realize, in the olden days, they would make a wine that was one of the greatest wines in the history of mankind and the next vintage they would make something that was undrinkable. Because they didn’t have the science behind them to tell them what they needed to do! Now we have science, so we can do what we need to do to make great wine every single year.”

https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/12/CWC-Promo-EG-Science.mp3

Every choice is a force on the vector

There is a limit to letting the land and the vineyard speak for themselves. There are choices such as what to plant and where, how many vines per acre? For example, the difference between 848 vines per acre and 2420 vines per acre can completely determine the concentration, the phenolic ripeness and the quality of the fruit. Bibiana describes how she and Jeff wanted to produce wines in California in a way that many people thought could not be done. Dan says that this kind of project takes vision because there is no guarantee that anyone in this country will even understand these wines.

[min. 20] Bibiana describes her arrival in Sonoma County in 2005 and she was making wine at the same facility as Jeff, for different labels. They became friends and then got married.

Shared Notes Colombian Coffee

[min. 23] Bibiana has also brought some special Colombian coffee. It is 100% hand grown single origin. The roast is done properly so the smell of coffee is permeating the room. Her two sons are 8 and 10 and she wanted something to connect her family to something positive from her home country. Coffee fits that perfectly. She thought they should start importing green coffee beans and roasting in California. That started in 2019, then in 2022 they started roasting coffee at the winery in Rhonert Park.

Acidity is important for both coffee and wine. Also, both depend on fermentation, since even coffee beans have to be fermented to get the husks off. “I’ve never smelled a light roast with this kind of character,” says Dan Berger.

Sonoma County Wine Library

Fri, 21 Nov 2025 23:24:45 +0000

Peg Champion and Brad Whitworth from the Sonoma County Wine Library join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. The Sonoma County Wine Library is reopening and the wine community is celebrating the rebirth of this great resource. They even have an Instagram page, here.

The library holdings document the history of wine in Sonoma County, as well as all over. The renovation of the Healdsburg regional library has been a benefit to the wine library too. There is more space for meetings and for study.

The Wine Library Association has just opened The Millie Howie Memorial Garden. She was the founder of the association. They also have several transcriptions of oral history interviews done with wine pioneers starting in the 1950s and ’60s.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

Peg, who is president of the Association, talks about their upcoming community events, starting with the Holiday Gathering on December 4. The library is in the center of Healdsburg. There is a photo exhibit of George Rose, the wine country photographer. and on December 16 he will be there for a “meet the photographer” event.

The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association on Feb. 1

They also collaborate with other wine organizations. The Atlantic Seaboard Wine Association will come in on Saturday, February 1, from 4-6 pm for a tasting of the Atlantic Seaboard’s 2024 wine competition award winners.

[@ 12:16] Peg describes the culture in wine country as being open to collaboration and sharing of information. That feels like the opposite of the business culture where NDAs are enforced. The Sonoma County Wine Library is a part of fostering and favoring that open information culture. Dan Berger says that the library is important so that 100 years from now there will be a story to be told. The wineries are too busy trying to stay in business. They don’t have time to document their own history. There are treasures that are the last of their kind, that don’t exist anywhere else. It’s not just for the wineries, it’s for any interested researchers. Peg Champion mentions Megan Jones, the Sonoma County Library research librarian dedicated to this subject.

James MacPhail

Fri, 21 Nov 2025 23:23:49 +0000

James MacPhail

James MacPhail is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. This is his first time on the show.

James MacPhail tells about how he was able to buy back the rights to his brand in July of 2024, so his business is undergoing a rebirth. He has just finished his thirtieth harvest. He and his wife started a brand in 2012 called Tongue Dancer Wines and he has four other collaborations where he is the winemaker. He works with some of the best vineyards in both Napa and Sonoma counties. Over several years he built his company MacPhail Family Wines, then sold it to Hess, then bought it back. Dan mentions that he will have to reassert his style over the brand’s production. With the tagline, “Crafted by nature, nurtured by hand,” the prospects are very good.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

“After 30 years, I’m still a kid in a candy store. I still love what I do. I still get up at 4AM. You know? And it has not yet… put me down.” He and his wife collaborate on their company. He just makes the wine and she does everything else. “Sometime she is a lot busier than I am.” Their tasting room is open by appointment.

San Giacomo Family Vineyards

Dan asks about the connection to San Giacomo Family Vineyards. The name is well known in the wine business but not so much outside. James says the San Giacomo family represents Sonoma County to him. San Giacomo sends grapes to many wineries, but James MacPhail is the only winemaker who lists their name on the label. Dan credits MacPhail with being predicting of what Pinot Noir would become, starting in the early ‘80s. The San Giacomo fruit is “precise” says Dan. The San Giacomo vineyard had early success planting Chardonnay en masse, providing fruit to all the up and coming producers. At that time, UC Davis was really figuring out how to grow Chardonnay.

At first, James made a lot of reds, but he needed to add a white to his production. Dan describes Chardonnay as red wine with no color, and Pinot Noir is like white wine but with color. Pinot Noir is seductive and Chardonnay can be powerful and intense. Dan says they should be served at the same temperature.

James and his wife have been traveling to Italy recently so his knowledge of wine is extending to Italian wines. Vermentino, Arneis and Cortese are Italian white wines that were hardly ever exported until the last 25 years. That is because they have only recently improved production technology, using stainless steel that is temperature controlled. There are more varieties in Italy than anywhere, more than 200 white varieties and 400 reds.

Adam Lee with Clarice Wines

Fri, 14 Nov 2025 23:23:42 +0000

Winemaker Adam Lee is our in-studio guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has enjoyed a distinguished career as a winemaker and winery owner and now he runs Clarice Wine Co. The last time Adam was on the show was this episode of July 14, 2021.

“If Adam Lee’s in the room, it’s gotta be Pinot Noir,” says Dan Berger, right at first. They are tasting a wine called Dial Tone, which has a picture of an old telephone dial on the label. For Adam Lee, Clarice should be, “…a very good honest Pinot at a reasonable price point.” It is 100% Pinot Noir with no alterations or additions. It uses the less expensive barrels which work well enough and are cheaper. This helps keep the retail price down. Adam remembers that the first wine he ever fell in love with was a 1989 Rocchioli Pinot Noir. It was great and cost about $13. Now he bottles this Pinot Noir and it retails for $19, so he achieved his goal. “Adam Lee is one of the greatest winemakers in America, period,” says Dan Berger.

Adam founded Siduri Wines and also made wine in Oregon and Santa Barbara. He has also started a project in France. Clarice was Adam’s grandmother, born in 1896. She was his best friend growing up and taught him how to cook. There are QR codes on the labels with extensive information about what went into the wine. There is a lot of relevant information that does not fit on a 3×5 index card. Some wineries don’t publish this kind of information. Some people care to know the pH of a wine.

Jake Lachowitzer of Banshee Wines

Fri, 7 Nov 2025 23:23:10 +0000

Jake Lachowitzer from Banshee Wines is our guest on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Banshee Wines was last on this show on this episode of June 1, 2022 which featured their winemaker at the time, Alicia Sylvester. Banshee wines stand out because they “…are so good and so reasonably priced…” says Dan Berger. They have broad distribution and are available “everywhere.”

They begin tasting their Sauvignon Blanc. SV has become an important grape in Sonoma County, especially because winemakers are making it from places like Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley. This one comes from Dry Creek Valley, Chalk Hill and Russian River Valley AVAs.

Dan Berger explains that this variety is capable of holding up against warmer weather later in the year. 2024 will be Jake’s first vintage at Banshee Wines. Their tasting room has moved to Geyserville, from Healdsburg. This wine has good enough acidity that it is made to go with food. Dan likes to serve it with goat cheese. Daedalus suggests gorgonzola with a little bit of honey. Dan suggests to go light on the honey so as not to overpower the wine flavors. He detects some flavors of preserved lemon and Chamomile tea.

Most people don’t age their wines, but the most interesting aspects of wine come out, in whites as well as reds, with a few years in the bottle.

Jake Lachowitzer

Jake Lachowitzer had a long journey to winemaking. He was born in Fargo, ND and had several careers before this. He first studied Sustainability and Environmental Science at Minnesota State University, then he got a graduate degree in winemaking and moved to Sonoma County. His first job was at Sonoma Cutrer in 2019. Then, he was assistant winemaker at Chalk Hill Estate. There isn’t much wine made in the midwest, but there are some varieties that are made to withstand the Minnesota winter. Dan Berger says that the farmers have adapted a cold-hearty variety of grapes to their soil types and weather.

Next they taste the 2024 Banshee Chardonnay. It is sourced from the Sonoma County Banshee estate. There are flavors of creme brulée, lemon curd, banana and nice barrel spice to finish it. It’s 30% new French oak, 9 months aging. Dan mentions the citrus flavors that characterize Sonoma County Chards. Most restaurants will serve it too cold, and the wine will have different flavors. This is because the health departments require refrigerators to be below 40 degrees and they can’t afford a separate refrigerator that is less cold. Today they are drinking it at about 65 or 66 degrees, which is warm enough for the flavors to express themselves.

Next up is a Pinot Noir. Dan Berger says that up to about 20 years ago, it was hard to find the right locations for Pinot Noir. Jake is working with a wide variety of clones and locations.

They also taste a 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, which Dan likes because he remembers it was a cool year. This wine has green herbal flavors and beautiful aromatics, structure and herbal notes. The fruit is mostly from Alexander Valley.

Elaine Wines

Fri, 31 Oct 2025 23:23:52 +0000

Elaine, the owner of Elaine Wines is our guest today on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. She started her winery after a career as an biotech intellectual property attorney. Dan Berger discovered these wines just by tasting them at an event. He was excited to find a Chardonnay that was not overdone and that smelled and tasted like Chardonnay. It is an older style of making Chardonnay that appeals to people like Dan who remember when that style was prevalent. Elaine Wines is a small winery but has already earned a bunch of awards.

This first one for tasting is the 2023 Chardonnay, the youngest one that Elaine brought. All of the Chardonnays are made with fruit from her vineyard. She has three acres with one acre of Chard and two of Pinot Noir. Dan detects a little bit of dried pineapple character and the oak is very subtle. The vineyard is at high elevation and Dan says the wine matches the smell of the vineyard. There are fir trees and oaks nearby which influence the vineyard. Dan also appreciates the good acidity. The vines are 25 feet from their house.

Before Elaine moved to California, she was a biotech patent attorney, with a background in molecular and micro-biology. She got an online certificate in winemaking from UC Davis, before she moved from North Carolina. Elaine found a custom crush where she was not obligated to meet a tonnage minimum, which allowed her to start making wine with a small production. She found a community of helpful people in California, who work in wine. That is uniform throughout most wine regions in the world, says Dan Berger.

Dan says that Prohibition may have ended in 1933 but it was the 1960s before winemaking woke up in the US, in California mostly.

Chardonnays

The second Chardonnay they taste came from the same grapes, but the first had newer barrels and the 2022 was made in one single barrel that had been used once before. That is generally considered 50% new. She only made 23 cases of this, because they had a very low yield and she had promised some grapes to another winemaker. This wine won a Double Gold at the San Francisco Chronicle wine tasting. Dan says that the problem with a lot of Chardonnay today is that it has to be big and rich. This is the other side of the spectrum of types of Chard.

A lot of people making Chardonnay are trying to make a wine that they think will sell. Elaine, on the other hand, came into this without that notion at all. She just lets the vineyard do what it can do, and then handle it in a way to bring that out. Don’t serve it too cold, because the flavors won’t come out. What’s more, this wine is a 2022 and it has had enough time to reach full maturity. She likes to do “as little as I can” and treat it gently.

Pinot Noir

The next tasting is a Pinot Noir that earned 99 points and a Double Gold from the American Fine Wine Competition, and Gold Medals all over the place. Dan says that the judges like it when the dominant flavor is fruit not oak. Dan describes the flavor of beets that is hiding in the wine.

Montagne Russe

Fri, 24 Oct 2025 23:23:09 +0000

Dan and Kevin

Kevin Bersofsky, owner of Montagne Russe wines, is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Harry Duke sitting in for Daedalus Howell today. He has been on CWC before, the last time was this episode of July 19, 2024.

Dan Berger begins with a compliment for Kevin’s Pinot Noir. He replies, “Syrah is my spirit animal,” so he has brought some Syrah too. His cellar is 50% Syrah. Most collectors don’t keep as much as Kevin does.

Dan explains that Syrah has to be grown in a cold climate, and warmer climates are risky. 2024 was “strange” and 2023 was cold. So the cold years give nicer aromatics.

The San Giacomo Family vineyards

The Pinot Noir says “Roberts Road” on the label, and Kevin explains. The San Giacomo family owns the vineyard. Kevin gives credit to the San Giacomo family for setting the conditions for making such a great wine. Angelo San Giacomo founded their company in the Carneros region. It wasn’t until about 1988-1990 when they started planting in what became known as the Petaluma Gap.

The combination of the soils and the weather have made Petaluma Gap one of the most interesting AVAs in the country. There are volcanic soils on one side, and a mix of clay and loam in other areas. Gap’s Crown falls in the middle layer halfway up the hill, where the sediment has settled in the lower region. Every region of Gap’s Crown can produce different flavors, even just by crossing the street. Dan compares this to Burgundy.

Montagne Russe means Russian Mountain literally, and is the French word for roller coaster. He was making 13 barrels of wine in his garage, which his neighbor objected to. He called ATF federal police and he had to destroy 4 barrels and promise to stop making wine at home. So then he and his friends started Montagne Russe. Their first wines got high scores, 93 and 94.

About 3 months ago they opened a tasting room in Petaluma and they love it there.

Wilson Artisan Wines

Fri, 24 Oct 2025 23:22:40 +0000

Ken Wilson and Katie Ambrosi from Wilson Artisan Wines are here on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Harry Duke sitting in for the vacationing Daedalus Howell. This is their first time on the show, although some award-winning Wilson wines were mentioned on Dan Berger’s report from the 2023 Harvest Fair competition, on this episde.

Dan says that Wilson Artisan Wines is one of the most successful brands in Sonoma County and wine country, with many award winning wines in their portfolio. Their first wins go back to 1991. They produce a lot of different varieties from several leading vineyards. The early ’90s were tough times for the wine industry. They were lucky that the first wine they made, a 1993 or 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon won Best of Class at Harvest Fair a couple of years after that. The business expanded as opportunities opened up, especially during wine market downturns. Most of their fruit comes from northern Sonoma County. The furthest south they go is probably a Bacigaluppi and some from St. Anne’s Crossing and a few others. But it’s mostly northern county and mostly mountain fruit.

Mazzocco and Antoine Favera

In the early 2000s there was another glut and nobody could sell wine to the East Coast, after 9-11. That’s when Ken had a lot of fruit that the wineries didn’t want that year. That’s when he acquired Mazzocco and that is when Antoine Favera became their winemaker.

There are lots of other brands in the Wilson Artisan Wines portfolio, and each one has a view on the Wilson Artisan Wines website. One after another, Ken had the opportunity to acquire various vineyards. Some were in need of restoration but every one produces great wine. Some of them are specialized in one varietal, like Honey Hill is mostly Zinfandel. Ken tells the story of each one that Harry asks about. They also blend brandies. You get one gallon of distillate out of ten gallons of wine.

They have been tasting the 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon labeled Pocket Highlands. That is the name of their ranch at the top of Mayacama Mountains. It is about 2000 feet altitude. Pocket Highlands Ranch is located east of Asti. Ken loves his mountain vineyards. A picture of the vineyard is used as the Apple computer OS update Sonoma.

Nicola Pellacani of Saintsbury Winery

Fri, 10 Oct 2025 23:23:33 +0000

Nicola Pellacani of Saintsbury Winery joins Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today.

Dan Berger explains that Saintsbury has been around for about 40 years with a record of getting better and better all the time and Nico will tell us their story.

Saintsbury used to be focussed on Carneros and now have shifted toward Sonoma Coast. Nico has brought their Sonoma Coast Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, made from their favorite vineyards.

They start with the 2023 Sonoma Coast Chardonnay. Most of it comes from a San Giacomo family vineyard. Dan Berger describes the cool climate influence with a bit of the complexity of Chablis and a light acidity. Saintsbury has been using this vineyard for a long time. Some of the planting was even done for Saintsbury.

Where the senses and the mind come together

The process of building a blend involves three or four passes. Nicola describes blending as a process where “…senses and mind come together. You have to allow yourself to reach that point.” Nicola started at Saintsbury as an intern in 2018. He worked on his first harvest that year, while was still a student in viticulture and enology at the University of Bologna in Italy. He is now the assistant winemaker

A family winery with a family atmosphere

Nico grew up in Italy and wine is on the table all the time. Dan Berger is eager to learn from the younger people in the world of wine. People’s palettes have evolved and this continues, just as weather patterns have changed. Nico mentions two mentors at Saintsbury, they are Tim Colla, the head winemaker at Saintsbury, and Jaime, their cellar master who has been there for 20 years. They have lots of conversations and taste lots of blends. They have family style lunch every Friday at Saintsbury. Having come from Italy, Nico is grateful to have a family feeling at Saintsbury.

Dan Berger describes the house style of Saintsbury, which has remained consistent for 40 years.

Next they taste a pétillant-naturel, which is abbreviated to pét-nat. It has very small and light bubbles and Dan declares it is delightful. They only made about 150 cases of it.

Saintsbury has an event scheduled for November 1, 2025, at the Napa winery at 1500 Los Carneros Ave. It is a celebration of past and present winemakers. It is more like a market, with local artisans.

Oded Shakked, Longboard Vineyards

Fri, 26 Sep 2025 23:23:06 +0000

Oded Shakked, Longboard Vineyards

Oded Shakked from Longboard Vineyards is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. He has been on CWC several times before, the last two times were this episode on September 20, 2024. and a year before that, this episode on November 17, 2023. Today he has brought more Longboard wines to taste and to discuss.

Oded Shakked’s episodes on California Wine Country have the distinction of holding the N.1 and N.2 positions for the most traffic (streams plus downloads) among all CWC episodes in the last eight years of the podcast. Congratulations to Oded and Longboard Vineyards!

Daedalus Howell begins by remembering that his last film premiered at Longboard Vineyards, as part of what is now the True West Film Fest. Oded Shakked remembers that he liked the movie.

40 Harvests!

This morning, Oded Shakked finished his 40th harvest, 28 for Longboard and the rest, for others. He still gets energized during harvest, when you work 12-18 hour days and feel jazzed afterwards.

Oded wants to find a balance, for Sauvignon Blanc, using grapes from different regions and 40% in neutral barrels, the rest in stainless steel, so partial ML, but still good natural acidity. They are tasting the 2024 SV from Russian River Valley. A lot of SV has been converted to Pinot Noir, but not this vineyard. “It has a nice snap to it, … green pea… melon… Meyer lemon…” says Dan. It has a character that Oded likes to call sun-dried linen.

Dan says that unfortunately, California Chardonnay is produced for people who like something rich. Dan considers those Chardonnays to be cocktail wines. SV is more fascinating because it has more nuances of flavor. In this Chard from Longboard, the ML is subtle. And unlike some New Zealand SVs, it is not too sweet. It is not served too cool, so the flavors are more evident.

Watergirl Rosé

Oded always wanted to make Rosé, and initially he made it from Syrah. However it did not sell. At the time, Rosé had not yet become fashionable. Most people in Russian River Valley make Rosé from Pinot Noir. Oded makes his Rosé mostly from Grenache, with some Syrah and Caringnane. He is looking for that southern French style. The name Watergirl Rosé comes from the wine’s previous name, which was Wahine. That means a surfer girl in Hawaiian, and nobody knew the word or could pronounce it. Oded is a lifelong surfer. He noticed that whenever there were women in the water, they had to work twice as hard to compete for space to drop in. He has a lot of respect for them because of that and so the wine is named for them. This Watergirl Rosé has juicy berry notes and watermelon at first, then the finish gets a little bit of the red wine component.

Later in the show Oded tells the story of how he grew up 100 yards from the beach in Israel. He started surfing as a kid and he still surfs. After his military service he made surfboards for a living, for a while. He would close shop in September and go to surf the west facing beaches in Portugal, Spain and France for months at a time. His interest in wine started in Spain on surf trips, drinking Albariño. It took some time for him to get so interested in wine. A friend of the family told him about a winemaking school in the US, and he took the suggestion. Later, he started Longboard because he wanted to write off his surf trips and admits that at first, he never thought the winery would last, let alone be so successful.

Christian Adams, German Wine Collection

Fri, 19 Sep 2025 23:24:27 +0000

Christian Adams with the German Wine Collection is back on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. The last time he was on CWC was this episode last November .

The name Fumé Blanc is still used by about 10% of the bottlers of Sauvignon Blanc. It was a name that Robert Mondavi came up with, for Sauvignon Blanc wine. Then in 1973 David Stare, founder of Dry Creek Vineyards, also started using it. Once the name was used, the federal government required the subtitle “Sauvignon Blanc” to explain Fumé Blanc.

Dan Berger has invited Christian Adams again, to emphasize the great wines coming from Germany. They used to have a reputation for being dominated by sweet whites but that’s no longer true.

Who wants dry Riesling? I do! I do!

After France and the US, Germany is the world’s third producer of Pinot Noir by volume. The weather in Germany is just warm enough for Pinot Noir, although mostly still too cold for Cabernet. Pinot Noir was brought to Germany in the middle ages. Up to about 40 years ago, the German Pinots were rather light. Some producers were making “off dry” Pinot Noir, slightly sweet. Now they are making world class Pinot Noir that rivals those of Burgundy.

“This is really good!” -Dan Berger

The use of oak is so careful that it’s almost not there, which favors the fruit flavors. Pfeffingen has been making wine since 1622. Pfaltz is the German name of the Palatinate region in western Germany where a lot of German Pinot Noir comes from.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

This wine is aged in a combination of smaller German and French oak barrels. Christian Adams raises the question that people often ask. What are the differences among barrels, where the wood is grown, and where the barrels are made? Christian explains that some wood comes from Romania or Germany. The differences include how much the wood is toasted and how big the barrels are. Smaller barrels make for more contact area with the wine.

Kim Stare Wallace plus Brian Pruett, Dry Creek Vineyards

Fri, 12 Sep 2025 23:24:14 +0000

Kim Stare Wallace and Brian Pruett are our guests on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. Brian is the winemaker at Dry Creek Vineyards and this is his first time on California Wine Country. Kim’s last time on the show was this episode of March 30, 2022.

Dan begins by describing Chenin Blanc and how versatile it is in Europe. Dry Creek Valley is making a sparkling Chenin Blanc to celebrate their 50th anniversary. They love Cremant de Loire, and the Stare family have friends in Loire Valley, so it felt right to make one for the celebration. Brian had never made a sparkling wine before but it worked so well they will make it every year.

Sparkling Chenin Blanc

They only needed to harvest a couple of weeks earlier than the still wine harvest, in order to get lower sugars and higher acidity. It is actually 90% Chenin Blanc and 10% Cabernet Franc. Chenin Blanc of course also makes a great still wine. Dry Creek Vineyards has been bottling Chenin Blanc for many years. They always called it Dry Chenin Blanc. Her father, is the pioneering winemaker David Stare. He always thought it important to point out the difference between their Chenin Blanc and many others, that veer toward the sweet side.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

Dry Creek Valley has been bottling Bordeaux-style blended wines “since the get go.” They have made some that favor the Cabernet side, and others like this new one that favor Merlot. They know the vineyards they are using, and they are looking for the oak not to overshadow the fruit or the vineyard. They want the wines to be as complex as possible and support combining with food. Daedalus notices a balance between power and elegance. Kim tells about Dry Creek Vineyard’s decision to focus on Dry Creek Valley as a source for their Bordeaux program. They have all kinds of conditions that favor the growth of Bordeaux varieties. Brian also remembers the influence of the Pacific Ocean that cools us off at night.

Clark Smith

Fri, 5 Sep 2025 23:24:15 +0000

Dan Berger, Clark Smith and Clark’s book Postmodern Winemaking.

Clark Smith, one of our most frequent guests, is back again on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell. His last time on CWC was this episode on Dec. 6, 2024, when he talked about unusual varietals.

Dan Berger is at WineSong today, and Clark Smith is here with Daedalus Howell. Clark Smith just got through bottling 12 new wines. One of the great things about wine is that you can’t experience it on the internet. You can experience a lot of BS about wine on the Internet, though. Daedalus remembers.

At first, there were some important writers who moved wrote in magazines, now writing online. Clark remembers that they were friends of the wine industry. They wanted to promote the idea of wine as a beverage. In 1972 when Clark Smith went into the wine business, he toured the country and met as many of them as he could. Now there are 13,00o so that’s a big change. Clark Smith notes the difference between regulation of the wine industry between the US and France. In France, the regulations are all about making the wine, and in the US, regulation all about selling the wine.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

They have a Pinot Noir from the Lester Family estate in the Santa Cruz mountains, which Clark calls the best region for growing wine anywhere. They also have a Sangiovese and a Zinfandel classico.

Dan Berger Calls from WineSong

Dan is on the road at WineSong, calling on the phone. Clark mentions the Zinfandel they are tasting in the studio, which he made in the old style, “before the world went nuts” and people started asking for wines that were big “pruny high-alcohol” wines. Zins that reach 17% ABV, absurd. Why did Napa Cabernet go this way? It’s really a disgrace. Clark makes wonderful Napa Cabernet, the way they used to in the ’70s. “We got into this sort of wet T-shirt contest, how big can we make the wine?” Big became too big. Napa really grows some of the best Cabernet in the world, “then we just piss it away making these clown wines…” Word.

Winemakers Greg Morthole and Chris O’Gorman

Fri, 29 Aug 2025 23:23:08 +0000

Winemakers Greg Morthole and Chris O’Gorman join Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country. Greg is the winemaker at Davis Bynum.

They are here to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Davis Bynum’s wine company. He was a pioneer in Russian River Valley and was one of the first to make Pinot Noir. Pinot Noir is difficult to grow properly.

Davis Bynum’s father was a journalist and wrote a book about how to make wine. Davis became a journalist from the age of 25 to 40 for the San Francisco Chronicle. At 40 he studied winemaking at the Berkeley library and went through a few “hard knocks.”

Dan points out that the one thing about Russian River Valley is that the weather is cool. The wines had natural acidity and did not need to be adjusted. Davis liked the natural style of winemaking because they required less work. His wines were always very good. When Dan interviewed him in 1986, he was making Merlot which he loved. Greg remembers that Davis would also play music to the vines. He started by raising organic grapes but got tired of paying certification fees.

Davis Bynum

Greg Morthole got to work with Davis Bynum, who passed away in 2017 at the age of 92. He was an interesting character and Greg heard a lot of stories from him.

They taste a 2023 Davis Bynum Dutton Origin Chardonnay (on the left, in the picture above). It has a beautiful rich personality. Dan calls it almost Burgundian in its aromatics. It has good acidity so it could be served with rich seafoods like lobster. It will probably get better after 2 or 3 years in the bottle. This wine come from a block that the Dutton family has been farming since the 1880s.

The 50th Anniversary Wine

The next tasting is the 50th Anniversary wine, a 2023 vintage. Dan Berger loves it but Greg Morthole gives credit to the weather. That year the ripening was slow, then there was some rain, and only then, the fruit ripened perfectly. “Mother nature just gave us a great wine,” says Greg. Dan suggests, and Greg agrees, that the ripening conditions this year remind him of 2023. They only made 35 cases of it.

Jamie Peters, WineSong

Fri, 22 Aug 2025 23:24:52 +0000

Jamie Peters from WineSong is our guest here in the studio on California Wine Country with Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell.

The Mendocino Coast Botanical Gardens, September 5 and 6 will host Winesong. Dan Berger has invited Jamie Peters from Winesong to talk about the 40th anniversary of this event.

Dan has brought some Riesling that was grown at Cole Ranch in Mendocino County. This is Dan’s production called Bahl Fratty. He made 65 cases this year. There is also an Anderson Valley Handley Cellars 2019 Gewurtztraminer and a Dancing Crow Vineyards wine, and many more. (Bahl Fratty is Boontling for Great Wine. Boontling is a historic local argot that is native to Anderson Valley. It was a secret code that locals used to confound visitors.)

Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation

Dan Berger describes WineSong as a tasting event with great food, music and a walk through the botanical gardens. The wine auction is a fund raiser for the Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation. They actually also have wines from Napa and Sonoma at the auction, and even from Oregon, but mostly local product.

The foundation supports health care and also local fire stations. Forty years ago the idea for WineSong started at the kitchen table of a local nurse. She is still involved in the event. Dan is proud that one year, the auction raised enough to purchase a new ambulance. That was a big deal.

There are lots of musicians who love to play this gig. Some are regulars, others rotate in and out. Some regular guests get to know the band members. Since it’s always the first weekend after Labor Day, the cooling breezes are always blowing at the end of the day. It’s a great scene for a great cause. It’s a barrel auction, so how do you get the wine home, asks Daedalus? They have a solution that turns it into about 24 cases.

Ferragosto with Dan Berger and Harry Duke

Fri, 15 Aug 2025 23:23:42 +0000

Ventura Smalley, Harry Duke, Cathy Ratto and Dan Berger.

Dan Berger and Harry Duke are in the studio together on California Wine Country today on the Italian holiday of Ferragosto. Our expected guest was not available.

California Wine Country is brought to you by the 40th annual WineSong!

Ferragosto is the Italian holiday celebrated on August 15th. It is the middle of summer vacation season in Italy. It is also a religious holiday, the Catholic Feast of the Assumption. Dan describes the rich history of Ferragosto and how a holiday with ancient roots is still an annual occurrence.

Dan Berger has brought a bottle of his Bahl Fratty Riesling, and several other wines. The Bahl Fratty is probably the driest Riesling ever made anywhere. There are also some red wines to taste.

Bahl Fratty

Bahl Fratty is Boontling for good wine. There is a typewriter on the label, which reminds us of Dan Berger’s illustrious career as a print journalist.

The 40th Winesong Weekend Celebration is Sept. 5-6, 2025. Click the Winesong 40th logo for details.

The next among the wines that Dan Berger has brought today is a 2024 Chateau Montelena Riesling. They have been making this exact same wine for a long time. It has aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple, a spice component, it’s not entirely dry, but it’s not sweet, just barely off-dry. It would go well with Thai or Chinese food.

Riesling is a grape variety that requires a cooler climate, or if not cool, it needs high winds to cool it off. There is only a little Riesling left in Russian River Valley, and some in Carneros and Petaluma Gap.

Harry asks Dan to tell about how Steve Jaxon introduced himself and invited Dan to join the show. They met for coffee and did a show that day, and have done it weekly since 2017, eight years ago. “It’s been an absolute blast,” says Dan. Dan mentions a lot of our regular guests, people with a great story to tell, like Don Chigazola from Chigazola Merchants, Alan Baker from Cartograph Wines, Darryl Miller from Delingher Wines. People travel long distances sometimes, to be on the show. Carol Shelton is another favorite, and Harry agrees.

Ferragosto

Dan describes the Italian holiday of Ferragosto, pronouncing it almost correctly, so Chris DiMatteo in Los Angeles calls in with the right sound and little more about the story of this important Italian holiday. This gives Chris the chance to raise a glass of Dan Berger’s Bahl Fratty Riesling and to toast Steve Jaxon, who has been a friend and mentor to Chris. Cin-cin, maestro!

Dan’s next tasting is a 2018 Syrah from Carneros. Syrah is considered a warm climate variety and Carneros is a cool region. So Dan decided to give it a few years to test it and it turned out to be “really really good.” It’s not a dark red but has a white pepper character. It was released probably is 2021 and the white pepper component has developed. It also has some dried violet character, which Harry can’t confirm. Cuvaison has been in business for close to 50 years and has owned that vineyard for about that long. This wine produces “an explosion of flavors” says Harry.

Michael Browne

Fri, 8 Aug 2025 23:23:32 +0000

Winemaker Michael Browne is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Daedalus Howell is sitting in for Steve Jaxon today. Michael has brought a few wines today.

The first pour is a 2020 Santa Rita Hills, made under his Cirq label. It his is focus on Russian River. His other brand, Chev, focuses on all the west coast, from Oregon to Central California.

The Santa Rita Hills is interesting to him because “it really moves in your mouth…it has a lot of movement. … It has massive presence. If you let it sit on your palette just a bit, you can kind of see that.” It is not heavy but it has presence. It has what he calls intense elegance. Michael Browne wrote a book called Pinot Rocks, subtitled A Journey Through Intense Elegance. He describes good wine as a piece of music, with high notes, middle notes and low notes. Daedalus calls it, “a wine that went to charm school.”

The Song and the Instruments

The “song” has been written in the vineyard and the barrels are the “instruments” that will play it. Dan Berger has one last bottle of a 2005 Santa Rita Pinot Noir that is one of the best he has ever tasted.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Next to be tasted is under the Chev label, which is Russian River, heart and soul. It’s a wine to be aged, or decanted at least. Their 2013s, ’14s and ’15s are in great shape right now.

In the 1990s there was an explosion of Pinot Noir producers in California and also Willamette Valley in Oregon. When Kosta Browne started, they were the second wave, doing unique things with Pinot Noir. He tasted a “substantial” Pinot Noir from Williams-Selyem and asked winemaker Burt Williams for advice on how to achieve that result. He learned how to time his harvest to get exactly that result. They are also tasting a Santa Lucia Highlands wine.

Michael Browne talks about making wine with “the Garys,” who are growers Gary Pisoni and Gary Franscioni. Gary Pisoni runs Pisoni Family Vineyards while Gary and Rosella Franscioni run Gary’s Vineyard and ROAR Wines. Both of them are located in the Santa Lucia Highlands. “They are the best growers that I know… They are family to me, big time.”

Rex Pickett, Author, plus Trevor Durling from BV

Fri, 1 Aug 2025 23:23:45 +0000

Today’s pre-show guest is Rex Pickett, author of Sideways. The main show guest is Trevor Durling, Winemaker from BV, Beaulieu Vineyard. This show was recorded on August 9, 2017 eight years ago. Due to a technical glitch, there is no recording of the live show recorded today, August 1, 2025. So for our podcast listeners, we offer this jewel of a Highlight show, in its place. Enjoy!

In the live segment before CWC begins at the top of the hour, Steve and Dan visit with Rex Pickett, author of Sideways, the book, movie and now stage play. Then after the main show, we will hear more of Steve’s interview with Rex Pickett.

Rex Pickett, author of Sideways.

First, Dan tells that somebody called him on the telephone way back in the ‘90s when he was writing at the LA Times, to ask him about Pinot Noir, Santa Barbara and Santa Ynez, the area where the book is set. Dan never got his name, and after the movie came out, Dan always assumed the call had come from Rex, but Rex says he wasn’t the caller.

The movie Sideways was not really about Merlot, it was more about Pinot Noir, or people, really. The situation of the market for Merlot changed as a consequence of the movie. The book was about Pinot Noir, not about Merlot. Dan says that Rex put his finger on the pulse of the industry at the time, what people were talking about in the industry then, which was that Pinot Noir was starting to take off in the US and particularly in cooler regions, Santa Barbara and Sonoma Counties in particular.

A story about people, that happened to have wine in it.

But it was a book about personalities and people, and only incidentally about wine. In Dan’s opinion, it was a great book and movie but it really tapped into something that was more wine-related than what Rex was hoping for.

Rex tells that he was starting to go to wine tastings and loved the lyricism and poetry about describing wine, (apart from some pretentiousness). Rex didn’t know that the wine tasting scene would become so important in the movie.

Merlot and the Cinema

Merlot had been “overcropped” at the time and the movie thinned out the herd, as a lot of poor Merlot producers no longer make it. They agree that the movie did a lot for Pinot Noir and at that time we were starting to get away from the routine Cabernet-Chardonnay and into other wines and Pinot Noir was the one that first broke through, and that the movie picked up on that momentary market trend. Dan points out that in 1992 California had 8,000 acres of Merlot. In 1995, there were 58,000 acres of Merlot. Rex says they were mechanized-farming it and Steve says it just wasn’t that good. Dan says there is good Merlot all over the place now but you have to be very careful what you buy because we’re down to about 29,000 arcres now, which is way too much, and planted in the wrong places.

Steve tells that his friend Jim from BV is there and he talks about when they were in DC, in April. Jim was there, he started singing and Steve was playing piano. Later we will hear a musical excerpt.

At the intro to the main show, Steve re-introduces Rex Pickett, author of the book, screenplay and the new stage adaptation of Sideways which will be on stage in Santa Rosa from September 8 through October 1 (2017).

Dan introduces Trevor Durling, winemaker at BV, which has been around since 1900. It was the home of the great André Tchelistcheff, starting in the 1930s up to around 1973. The BV style of the wines had been formed and it’s not easy to shift. It’s like turning an ocean liner. The problem always had been to use French oak versus American oak. BV started using American oak, for Cabernet. The fact is that BV didn’t make certain grapes that had become popular, such as Zinfandel. Dan talked to André about that and André said he would not know how to make Zinfandel, as he didn’t know it.

Beaulieu Vineyards

BV is a historic property and makes more varieties now. The flagship is still the BV Private Reserve. Trevor tells that was born and raised in Santa Rosa and had wine at the dinner table from a young age. But it wasn’t until he went to UC Davis and took a winemaking class that he got interested seriously. He realized the Davis program was special and then was hired as a harvest intern at a winery. Trevor loves the combination of art and science in this kind of agriculture and he also loves that it’s a social product that you can enjoy with friends and family and good food.

He’s going into his 16th vintage. Steve says he is proof that drinking wine keeps you young and makes you look good. He just joined BV four months ago, so this year is his first vintage. He spent the last 8 years across the highway at Provence and Hewitt vineyards. which is in the same winemaking network as BV so he has worked with some of the same growers and vintners, so there is continuity in his present position.

Dan says that Trevor also worked with Tom Rinaldi at Provenance, who is his mentor. He says he will write a book about working with him. Joel Aiken is carrying André Tchelistcheff’s legacy forward. Dan visited the property with André 6 months before he passed away and he spoke highly of Joel. During the interview Joel joined the conversation and talked about converting from French Oak to American Oak. Joel kept the traditions going that have kept BV at the top of the game, ever since 1900 with George de la Tour himself founded the winery.

Who’s a snob, and what do you drink?

Steve asks Rex to talk about his experience with wine and how he came to write Sideways. He says that at a certain time in his life he was living in LA and playing golf to take his mind of heavy issues of family life, and the golf courses in LA were expensive but the ones up near Santa Barbara were not, so he went up there to play and got to know the wineries in the area. At the same time, he was living in LA and going to wine tastings at a local store. Dan tells that at the time wine was the snob beverage and beer was the popular beverage. But the movie Sideways showed that wine was something for everyone. Dan points out that Sideways changed the way that wine was perceived.

They taste a BV 2014 Carneros Chardonnay. Dan says it’s an elegant style, not overblown, as the oak is in check. It has mid-palette richness and cripness, together.

Trevor tells that it was made 100% from BV ranch grapes in the Carneros district, 100% barrel fermented, with about 60% new oak and half of that is put through malolactic fermentation, “…to add a little bit of the mouth feel.” Everything is aged sur lies. Steve calls a Geek Alert. Trevor explains that that means that after fermentation is finished, there is some yeast and solid content in there, and they stir the barrels which adds mouth feel and viscosity in the wine.

More about Sideways and more BV wines

After the break, Steve re-introduces today’s crew and asks everyone to talk about Sideways. Dan says that it was pure entertainment, but that if you think of all the implications that it had on the wine business and on society in general, it’s really far more monumental. Steve again points out that rather than being a movie about wine, it’s about two guys and their live lives and Rex mentions that the Paul Giamatti character Miles is based on his life at the time.

Next they taste some BV reds. First, the 2013 Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon. Among the different Cabernets that they make, Dan says the standard bearer is the Rutherford. He says it shows what André Tchelistcheff called Rutherford dust, not the actual soil dust but the faint dried herbal components that come from there and not from other Napa Valley districts.

Trevor thinks of it as a chocolatey cocoa powder texture which is typical of the Rutherford appellation.

Dan has had examples of Rutherford wines that last 30 years in the cellar.

Next they open a 2014 Tapestry Cabernet, with more guts and power to it. Dan says this wine carries more of the modern style and the older generation would prefer the Rutherford.

Tapestry

Trevor notes that the Tapestry is a fun wine to make because it is a red blend and is not held to having a specific varietal dominate it. Typically it is Cabernet Sauvignon based but will use some Merlot, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, in different proportions each year, to make the best red wine they can make each year.

Finally they open what Dan calls “The Monster” which is the George de la Tour Private Reserve, which has been made since the 1930s. It has gone through some changes thanks to some conditions in the 1940s and 1950s. Trevor talks about how they had to change to American oak back then because French oak was too hard to get, thanks to the war and economic conditions. Trevor tells how that remained a style of the private reserve, up until the 90s, when they started re-introducing French oak.

After the close of the California Wine Country show, we hear the rest of Steve’s interview with Rex Pickett, which was recorded before the CWC hour.

Author Rex Pickett, author of the book Sideways, which became the movie and is now a play. Rex says the adaptation is based on the novel and has been performed before, in Santa Monica. He agreed to do the production under the condition that they could pour high end Pinot Noir at the theater. Rex describes how the play was first produced. They discuss how the author adapted the book and movie into the play. He wanted the play to maintain as much as possible of the movie’s style, which meant a lot of scenes and set changes. The production of Sideways ran from September 8 to October 1, 2017, at the Left Edge Theater in the Luther Burbank Center in Santa Rosa.

Trecini Winery, Kyle Cameron & Gianna Fugazi

Fri, 25 Jul 2025 23:23:26 +0000

Kyle Cameron and Gianna Fugazi of Trecini Winery are our first-time guests on California Wine Country with Daedalus Howell in for Steve Jaxon, and with Dan Berger.

Kyle is a seventh generation Russian River Valley farmer. They are farming grapes now. He and his wife Christina bought Trecini Winery in order to get more involved in the rest of the wine business, apart from growing grapes. The wine market is in a downturn, so he has a positive outlook. Dan Berger says this downturn is a predictable one or two year cyclic drop.

Giana Fugazi is originally from Linden, California, where she grew up on a cherry orchard. She studied wine business and archaeology at Sonoma State. Her dad calls grape growing “fancy farming.” She worked as an archaeologist in Italy for three years.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Dan Berger believes that the future will include more Italian grape varieties. He peaks to retailers all around the country and the world. Retailers are telling him that there is less enthusiam for the Number one varietals in white and red, which are Chards and Cabs. There are many wines that used to be obscure that people are asking for. “I’m interested in making any kind of obscure wine,” says Kyle.

Dan’s Albariño and Gianna’s Verdolo

As a starter, Dan has brought a wine from grape grower Francis Mahoney, a friend of his. It is a 2024 Albariño, quite dry, sells for about $24 a bottle. It’s in a lot of local retain shops. Gianna has brought a Verdolo from Portugal. There are less than 500 acres of this grape in California. This is a 2024 from Taft Street, where Gianna is a series winemaker. This is her first take, a 100% neutral barrel. The organic grapes are from Calaveras County. She fermented it outside in barrels, no temperature control, then she consolidated it into an egg (concrete). There was no temperature control, so it was risky but successful.

Darryl Miller, Dehlinger Winery

Fri, 18 Jul 2025 23:23:27 +0000

Darryl Miller from Dehlinger Winery is back on California Wine Country today with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on the show before, the last time was this episode, last summer.

This is the 50th anniversary of Dehlinger Winery. Darryl has known the family for forty years. Tom Dehlinger was a biochemist and got the wine bug. He studied wine at Davis and worked with some local wineries. Then, bought a property on the corner of Vine Hill Road and Guerneville Road in 1972. He and his brother built an octagonal house in the middle of the property which is iconic. They crushed their first grapes in 1975.

Dan Berger started writing about wine at that time and tasted his first Dehlinger wines in 1979. They were among the first to plant grapes in the area which would later become Pinot Noir and Chardoheaven. The other local pioneers were the Rocchioli and Martinelli vineyards, not far from there. The vineyard is a rolling hill property with two types of soil, Altamont, a red iron based clay, and Goldridge, a gray sandy loam. The sections of the vineyard with different soils produce different results in the wine. This is why they produce some wines from each section and soil type.

Bahl Fratty Riesling

The 40th Winesong Weekend Celebration is Sept. 5-6, 2025. Click the Winesong 40th logo for details.

Dan Berger has brought a bottle of his Bahl Fratty Riesling It is a 2023 that just got a Gold Medal at the American Fine Wine Competition in Miami. The grapes are from Cole Ranch in Mendocino County, near Booneville. Bahl Fratty means Good Drink in Boontling, the local lingo. Dan’s goal was to make the wine as dry as possible. The 2022 was also a gold medal winner.

Darryl went to college in Humbolt State then moved to Seattle and worked as a waiter. He met someone who suggested he could sell wine and he did end up selling a lot of wine. The business took him to San Francisco, Hawaii and Tahoe. Eventually he ended up in Sonoma County, the same year as Dan, in 1981. He started his own company as a broker and sold some very famous wines like Taft Street, Davis Bynum and Iron Horse. Then in 1995 he sold his company to the Henry Wine Group and continued to work with them. Darryl is one of the judges at Dan Berger’s annual wine competition.

There are different ways to know good wine but what’s really important is what you like. -Darryl Miller

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Dehlinger makes about 8,000 cases of wine per year, but they grow enough grapes for 40,000. Many famous wineries get grapes from them, whose names are not to be made public. The rest of the show is the tasting of the wines Darryl has brought.

First is the 2021 Goldridge Pinot Noir. Round, rich and juicy, Dan says silky with a crisp finish. The next one is also a Pinot Noir, from the Altamont soil section, that has more structure because it also gets some whole cluster fermentation. Darryl calls the Altamont tighter, stronger with more minerality. Visit the website for details.

Vaughn Duffy Wines

Fri, 11 Jul 2025 23:23:23 +0000

Matt Duffy from Vaughn Duffy Wines joins Steve Jaxon, Dan Berger and Daedalus Howell on California Wine Country today. Daedalus Howell is also in. He is doing an hour every weekday from 2 to 3 PM on Wine Country Radio.

Vaughn Duffy specializes in Pinot Noir. They make 8 or 10 Pinot Noir wines from Russian River Valley and Petaluma Gap. Their tasting room is on Sonoma Highway next to Palooza Restaurant. Today he has brought two bottles of Pinot Noir. The San Giacomo vineyard and Uberroth vineyard, as well as a barrel sample of another Pinot Noir that is in production.

Petaluma Gap

In August there will be a tasting event that culminates on August 10 at a new venue in Santa Rosa called The Backdrop. There will be over 100 Petaluma Gap wines to taste.

Petaluma Gap is one of the greatest wine growing regions that gets its cool climate from the wind. This keeps the acidity levels high. As the climate gets warmer, regions like Petaluma Gap will enjoy favorable conditions. The wind comes up every evening at about 5:00 and it is unstoppable. The region is ideal for Pinot Noir but they grow Grenache, Syrah and Blau Frankish. Great Pinot Noir will not be dark red, and Dan noticed that about these wines.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Pinot Noir lovers have been drinking Petaluma Gap wines since even before the AVA of Petaluma Gap was establihed in 2017. Before that, it was all Sonoma Coast AVA. But Sonoma Coast is a gigantic area and it made sense to carve out the Petaluma Gap due to its unique conditions and results.

The Wind to Wine Festival is coming on August 8, 9 & 10 with exclusive vineyard walks, winery tours and the great tasting on August 10 with super-chef Charlie Palmer.

Matt Duffy and his wife Sarah Vaughn are about to make their sixteenth consecutive bottling. His first year working was 2007. After being a harvest worker and learning winemaking from the process of doing it. He and his wife bought some grapes in 2009 and started making wine, while he was still working his day job managing the crush facility. They have a tasting room in Kenwood in the Sonoma Valley. “The wine business is a long game. It takes a year or two to get your line into the bottle to sell it… You’ve got to stick it out… Keep going, keep growing… look for better vineyards every year.”

Domaine Della

Fri, 27 Jun 2025 23:23:17 +0000

David Hejl from Domaine Della is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Blair Hardman is also in the studio today. The Domaine Della winery is named after David’s mother, Della.

David used to be the CEO and general manager for Kosta Browne. He worked for Kosta Browne winery after they were sold to new owners. He was entrusted with managing the staff through a transition to go from 10,000 cases per year to 30,000.

Before that, David started in the 1980s living in Paris, France, working for Nabisco. He had great French wine at dinner every night. That was the exposure to wine that started his lifelong interest.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

They are tasting a Chardonnay that Dan Berger calls, “Chardonnay to make you wake up,” and, “incredible.” David gives credit to the vineyard, one of Sonoma County’s finest. It’s all about picking to get the perfect acidity. He also prefers not to use too much oak. That is how he gets the fruit to take the lead.

Dan calls this wine perfectly balanced. It has the rich fruit that you want, but the acidity to make it pair well with food. It is a remarkable balance between big and delicate. And of course, it should get better in about three years.

David says, “We’ll be in harvest before you know it!”

Then they open a Pinot Noir. He uses fruit from some of the same vineyards that supplied Kosta Browne. The owners and growers are longtime friends. They are 85% direct to consumer. The rest sells through charity events around the country.

Dan says the Pinot Noir is excellent, and has all the best characteristics of Russian River Pinot Noir. Elegant, raspberry aromas, a little bit of cherry, and a spice component. David explains that there are 6 different clones, in two different vineyards.

Daedalus Howell joins Steve, Dan and Melissa Galliani

Fri, 20 Jun 2025 23:23:54 +0000

Dan, Melissa and Deadalus.

Melissa Galliani and Daedalus Howell are our guests on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Melissa Galliani is the GM of Wine Country Radio. Deadalus Howell is the editor of the North Bay Bohemian and some other local publications. He is also a frequent guest on The Drive with the Boho Buzz, a regular feature of what’s currently in the paper. Lisa Santos, the advertising director of The Bohemian, is also in.

This is Bay Area Burger Week. Co-incidentally, Dan Berger wrote an article this week about hamburger meat and hamburger sandwiches. There is just one vowel of difference between burger and Berger! There is a promotion with restaurants that have specials throughout the 12-day “week.” Daedalus has a trivia question for listeners, which is, what actor played the part of McDonald’s entrepreneur Ray Kroc in the movie The Founder? Listener Kelley knew that answer is Michael Keaton and she wins the prize. Later we will ask who played Pussy Galore in Goldfinger? Honor Blackman is the answer.

After all the banter, the wines.

Terry Damskey from Dehlinger Winery could not come in as scheduled today. So Dan Berger has brought a few wines from Bottle Barn for tasting and discussion. The first one tasted is a Washington state wine which was at Bottle Barn for a mere $4.99. Today is the first day of summer, so there will be a lot of whites (and Rosés) on the show.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Then they taste a 2022 Babich Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. It is on sale at a close-out price at Bottle Barn. There is also a Cinsault from Lodi, California. The winery is called Jesse’s Grove. They have their own vineyards, some of which are original vines planted in 1886. They have some of the oldest Cinsault grapes in the world. Finally, Ammunition is a Sonoma County Pinot Noir.

Alto Adige Wines with Don Chigazola

Fri, 13 Jun 2025 23:23:59 +0000

Wine importer Don Chigazola is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with newly arrived wines from Alto Adige. His company Chigazola Merchants brings small lots of carefully selected wines from small family producers in many different regions of Italy. Steve Jaxon describes what he does as “…the coolest job in the world.” Melissa Galliani is also with us in the studio today.

Don begins by describing how he has recently expanded his activity into France, by applying the same model that they do to their business with Italian winemakers.

They went to the Paris wine show, and they also spent some time visiting family winemakers in Provence. They met with four and they will definitely be importing from two of them. That will begin once the tariff situation settles down.

Chigazola Merchants

Don started traveling to Italy with his wife Debbie, visiting small hilltop towns, asking the locals about who made the best wine. He found a lot of great wine, and noticed that the quality of wines he found in Italy was not available here. So he figured out how to import wine from Italy, to sell directly to consumers. He needed three different licenses and eventually fulfilled all the requirements.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

In the first few years, Chigazola Merchants sold about 80% of their wine to local bars and restaurants, and 20% to individuals. That proportion has reversed now, since their wine club has grown so much.

Today Don has brought some white wines from the Alto Adige region, where they grow grapes at very high altitude. The wines come out with high minerality and fresh acidity. The first are tasting a Riesling that arrived in California last February. This Riesling is bone dry. Dan Berger calls this wine the anti-Chardonnay. It’s not so dry that it’s austere. It has fresh clean aromatics and it goes with food. Melissa agrees that it tastes fresh and crisp. The Rieslings from this producer will age well.

The second wine they taste is a Sylvaner, which is a dry white variety very different than the Riesling. Dan says it is oriented to delicate foods, as a delicate wine. It could go with halibut or sturgeon. Riesling is more aromatic, this wine is more minerally. Melissa suggests Teriyaki Sea Bass. These wines are all 2023s.

The third wine is a varietal that if very difficult to find here in California called Kerner. It typically makes a little sweeter wine, a little bit like Gruner Veltliner. It has a nice balance between sugar and acid. It’s a “porch pounder” says Dan.

Meet the Producers

There is a section on the Chigazola Merchants website called Our Producers where you can learn more about the families that produce the wines that Don imports.

The fourth varietal tasted today is a Gewürtztraminer. Usually that is a sweet wine, but Dan describes this one as “succulent without being sweet.” The label says 3g of residual sugar, which Dan calls “nothing.” Dan says it’s not an easy wine to make because you have to be in a really cold climate and know exactly when to pick the grapes. The producer makes a very small amount and sells most of it in their local village. Don got 10 cases. Dan Berger says it is the most amazing Gewürtztraminer he has ever tasted.

Puppione Family Wines plus Pizza from PizzaLeah

Fri, 6 Jun 2025 23:23:18 +0000

Leah Scurto and Chris Puppione.

Chris Puppione from Puppione Family Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today.

Leah Scurto from PizzaLeah is also here, and she brought several different pizzas. We will try some pizza and wine pairings.

Chris Puppione starts telling the story of the family winery. He had worked in wine and thought of bottles of wine as time capsules. So when his first daughter was born, he made a wine for her to celebrate her birth. A neighbor in the Russian River area sold him one ton of Syrah grapes.

He even told a tall tale to his wife to get her to come out and prune the first grapes for their wine. When the second daughter was born he made another wine and they kept on making wine that connects to their family history. This wine they are tasting today is a 2017.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Dan Berger discovered Puppione Family Wines when he was a judge in a blended red category at a recent competition. Immediately he liked it so much he found out who made it. It was a really low alcohol wine, which Dan likes. About 10 days later, Dan found the winery and met Chris for the first time. Chris Puppione mentions his day job, he oversees US wineries for Coravin, a company that makes wine equipment.

Pizza and Wine Pairings

Festa Bianco + Sicilian

We’re going to do pizza and wine pairing today. Leah Scurto has brought four different pizzas, each one with very different flavors. We will pair them with four Puppione wines.

The first pairing is a bottle of Festa Bianco, a white wine, with the Sicilian pizza. Festa was Chris’ grandmother’s maiden name. The Sicilian pizza has Castelvetrano olives, Italian salame, chili flakes, ricotta and a little red onion. The wine is a Friulano, which is a northern Italian white wine often mistaken for Sauvignon Blanc. It goes well with green vegetables and salads. It come from the Friuli region of Italy, which is the north-eastern part of the country, next to Slovenia.

Festa Rosso + Nico

The next pizza is the Nico, which is an award winner. It has confit garlic, fresh rosemary, black pepper and Italian sausage. This is paired with Festa Rossa, which is a blend of Syrah, Cabernet and Friulano. It is again, pretty low alcohol.

PizzaLeah’s Cold Fermentation Dough

Dan calls PizzaLeah’s pizza the most classic pizza in Sonoma County. A lot of factors make PizzaLeah’s pizza special. Importantly, the dough is made by a slow, cold fermentation process. She uses local flour from Central Milling. She makes dough fresh daily. Only after two or three days of proofing in cold storage does it become pizza. Extended fermentation makes bread more digestible. It also gives the dough the right texture. Some deep dish pizzas are not really even pizza, they are more like cake. For comparison, it’s almost more like a casserole. PizzaLeah does have two Detroit-style pan pizzas. The crust comes out looking like a brick but light as a feather when you eat it.

Juventus + Spade

Dan appreciates Chris Pappapietro’s wine for the abundant fruit flavors. To make their Friulano, he had to go up into the hills near Tahoe, to a vineyard called Snow’s Crossing. It’s an alpine wilderness. They foot stomp all of their fruit, just like his grandfather did. His kids get into the bins and stomp fruit. There are pictures of that on their site. Especially, they left the Friulano on the skins in order to get more flavors from it.

Next up is the Juventus wine, named after the goddess of youth and rejuvenation (not the soccer team). Instead, he wanted to make a red wine that would invigorate people instead of bringing heaviness. He made it in stainless steel which helps maintain the fruit flavors.

An American Pizza, An Italian Award

Syrah + Detroit Pepperoni

The Spade pizza won an award in the American category in a competition in Napoli.

The next wine is their Intero Syrah. Intero means “whole” in Italian. It is the first wine that his whole family stomped on, but also they stomped on whole clusters. Leah has paired it perfectly with the original Detroit pepperoni pizza, which is finished with their hot meatball sauce. It has a little bit of Pecorino Romano. Steve grew up in Detroit and doesn’t remember the term “Detroit” pizza, it was all just pizza. Detroit style is very popular these days.

Small Vines Wines with Paul Sloan

Fri, 30 May 2025 23:23:27 +0000

Dan and Paul from Small Vines.

Paul Sloan from Small Vines Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Daedalus Howell also joins us today. Small Vines Wines makes “world class wines of distinction.” Paul grew up in Sonoma County on a 250-acre horse and cattle ranch, on the eastern side of Santa Rosa. He worked in restaurants and ended up at John Ash & Co., known as one of the original farm-to-table restaurants.

His favorite wines were always from families that grew the fruit and also made the wine. When he fell in love with age-worthy, food-friendly wines, he continued to work for the Dutton family and studied viticulture at Santa Rosa JC. He planted some high-density vineyards over the years and his wines come from them.

High-Density Vines

Dan Berger says that the predictions of weather are less reliable than ever, as climate change is not uniform. Paul finds that high-density planting helps, in hot years by shading the vines. High density planting works but you have to take careful care of the vines.

Paul was the first person to actually design a wine with good natural acidity by planting high density vines.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Phylloxera is a root louse that is so small it is hard to see. It chews on certain roots and in particular, native roots. So you have to choose rootstock that is impervious to it. It appeared in the late 1980s. It was inevitable that all the vines affected had to be torn out and the vineyards replanted.

The more leaf surface you have, the more dappled sunlight you have, instead of direct light. By planting a 4-foot tractor row instead of an 8-foot tractor row, you can get fifty percent less direct sunlight on the fruit.

Daedalus asks about automation and the potential to use drones in the vineyard. Paul tells about advanced tractors that gather data. The high end producers will continue to do things by hand, but a lot of less expensive wines will have to use some automation. Dan Berger mentions that a lot of the automation is in the winery, rather than in the vineyard. There are tanks with built-in chemical analysis equipment. Also, sorting the fruit is still an important manual process. Ideally, you only harvest the ideally formed clusters of fruit.

Their first tasting is a 2021 TBH Chardonnay, that demonstrates the fruit selection. They sort the fruit on the vine. You only take the ideal length of cluster and diameter of berries. Their 2021 Chardonnay is the current release. His goal is to make age-worthy, food-friendly wines, so he sees no reason not to hold his wines for a few years before releasing them.

Deodora Estate Vineyards

Fri, 23 May 2025 23:23:50 +0000

Erica, Judy & Doug.

Doug Mryglod, Judy Phillips and Erica Stancliff from Deodora Estate Vineyards are our guests with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Daedalus Howell is also in the studio today.

This is the first time that Doug and Judy have been on the show for Deodora Estate Vineyards. Erica Stancliff has been on CWC before on this episode of June 24, 2020.

Dan Berger introduces Deodora for winning a gold medal for a dry Riesling at the latest wine competition. The 2019 that won was up against some very stiff competition.

The 2024 is maybe better, says Dan. Judy says they bottled it back in February and this is the first bottle they are opening. The grapes come from “an amazing site in the Petaluma Gap.” This is precisely what the American consumer wants, and doesn’t know it. It is dry but not too much, with just enough personality in the aftertaste to suggest what kind of food it would go with. It should be served chilled but not ice cold. Dan describes plumeria, wild tropical fruit, and citrus flavors. The lime flavors will come out in about two years. Judy says Dan’s commentary makes the perfect tasting notes for this wine. It is not gripping and so lemony.

CWC is brought to you by Deodora Estate Vineyards. Visit Deodora to discover 72 acres in the Petaluma Gap that are producing exceptional Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Riesling.

Daedalus Howell is also here today. He notices the minerality in this wine, “a quiet little whisper” of slate, underneath the fruit flavors. It was barreled in concrete, there was no malolactic fermentation, and there was one neutral French oak barrel, and stainless steel.

Doug tells the Deodora story that starts with Judy. In 2012 they got a property that was an old goat farm. It took them months to clean it up and decide what to plant. There is a story behind the Riesling. He worked with Ford family in the Finger Lakes region, Heron Hill wine. Doug fell in love with Riesling after tasting theirs.

Doug’s Riesling made for himself

Doug didn’t want his Riesling to be too dry or too sweet, just in the middle, and for himself only. Dan says, “I did the same thing… just for me.” Dan says that Riesling makes itself if you have the right grapes. Judy says it was hard for them to believe they won that award for the Riesling.

Erica Stancliff tells how she was born and raised in Forestville with parents who were home winemakers. They started Trombetta Winery where Erica is the winemaker. Her mentor was Paul Hobbs and she is now a winemaker for various local labels. She loves Petaluma Gap for the wind, climate, Sonoma coast influence and the fog. That makes it perfect, absolutely perfect for Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and also Riesling.

Daedalus asks Erica if their friend Chris Sawyer, the “sommelier to the stars” is really the originator of the term Petaluma Gap. He claimed it, says Daedalus. Erica has a precise technical description of the climate that makes for slow development of brix levels. In Petaluma Gap you only get a few hours of the peak heat, before the wind comes in every day.

The name Deodora comes from an old tree that is on a property he owns on a golf course. The tree is beautiful and comes from the Himalayas.

Papapietro-Perry

Fri, 16 May 2025 23:23:03 +0000

Steve, Ben, Yolanda and Olli.

Ben Papapietro and his wife Yolanda join Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away today, visiting the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival, which we talked about on this episode two weeks ago. Ben is a co-founder of the Papapietr0-Perry winery. This is Ben and Yolanda’s first time on CWC.

Ben Papapietro started in his basement in San Francisco as a home winemaker. He had a friend, Bruce Perry, who worked with Ben in the delivery of the San Francisco Chronicle. They wanted to make Pinot but there was hardly any fruit at that time. Another friend, Burt Williams, also helped him get some Pinot fruit. But they made a lot of Cabernet Franc blends and Zinfandel. In 1990 he got a really good source of Pinot fruit. Then his partner talked him into opening a professional winery in 1997. Early in his winemaking career, Ben did some harvests with Burt Williams, the co-founder of Williams-Selyem, who was a mentor to Ben. He was one of the local winemakers who started producing Pinot Noir in Sonoma County.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Goldridge Soil Again

They are tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir, a vineyard designate from Peter’s Vineyard. It is in the high southern hills with the famous Goldridge soil that makes the region famous.

Melissa Galliani joins us in the studio today. Her t-shirt says “near perfect” and it has a story. Ben’s partner made the t-shirt that reproduces the comments of wine reviewers who liked their wine. Bruce Perry was Ben’s partner and very close friend. He passed away a couple of years ago.

Papapietro-Perry is participating in the Healdsburg Wine and Food Experience this weekend. But he and his wife are taking 80 people on a cruise up the Douro River in Portugal. They have organized several other cruises with as many as 140 people with them. They visit a lot of wineries and taste a lot of wine.

Ben grew up in the Mission district of San Francisco and visited Italy several times to see relatives on both sides of his family.

The Papapietro-Perry Light & Bright Club

Papapietro-Perry has a “Light and Bright” club, which is for Rosé and Chardonnay. On June 14th there is an event called “Wine, Cheese and Chocolate.” Even during Covid they did a once-a-week live show that kept people involved. And in July there is the Papapietro-Perry Lobster and Chardonnay Festival.

Next they taste a Chardonnay which is a lighter style, fruit forward with a nice spicy finish that lingers. Ben also brought a Pinot Noir, made from the 777 clone grown in four different vineyards with different growing conditions.

Bettina from Laurel Glen Vineyard

Fri, 9 May 2025 23:23:38 +0000

Bettina from Laurel Glen Vineyard is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Bettina’s father Peter M. F. Sichel recently passed away at 102. He was an old friend of Dan Berger who credits him with great contributions to winemaking, in Germany and in the US. Dan wrote a review of Peter’s book called “The Secrets of My Life: Vintner, Soldier, Prisoner, Spy.” He was instrumental in making Blue Nun wine popular, a dry white wine from Germany.

Dan describes the story of Blue Nun as a story of the Atomic Age. There is a bottle of it on the cover of the Fleetwood Mac album Rumors and there is a Beastie Boys song called Blue Nun. Blue Nun was very popular in the 1970s. The brand ran radio advertisements nationally that were written and recorded by Stiller & Meara. Here is one of them:

https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/05/BLUE-NUN-1970-Stiller-Meara.mp3

Laurel Glen is on top of Sonoma Mountain. It is a remarkable property. The fact that people would plant Cabernet up there is “outrageous” says Dan. It makes a special kind of wine. Bettina says it’s a great site for Cabernet. In the 1990s, Cabernet was a much more restrained, a low-alcohol wine with high acidity. That is still the Lauren Glen style.

Sonoma Mountain AVA

The vineyard was first planted to Cabernet in the 1960s. They are located on a plateau. The Sonoma Mountain AVA is on the east side of the mountain. The west side of the mountain is now the Petaluma Gap AVA. The mountain blocks the wind and fog. They don’t achieve the degree of ripeness that Napa Cabernets do, which produces what Dan calls a richer, oaky, more concentrated and higher in alcohol.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

Next for tasting is a Riesling that comes from a vineyard on the central coast near Monterrey. They are the last grapes that come into the winery, after all the other grapes. That shows what a long maturation process these grapes require. Dan can think of only about 5 vineyards in California that produce high quality dry Riesling and this is one of them. They make three Cabernets, a Rosé and some Gruner Veltliner.

Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival 2025

Fri, 2 May 2025 23:23:23 +0000

Barbara Barrielle

Barbara Barrielle calls in to California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about the Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival 2025 coming May 16-18. She was a guest on CWC last January on this episode when the Anderson Valley Winegrowers were promoting the International White Wine Festival in February.

The Pinot Noir Festival has been going on for 26 years. Anderson Valley is home to some picturesque small towns and to several vineyards. Its cool climate is ideal for Pinot Noir.

The Anderson Valley Pinot Noir Festival runs from Friday May 16 through Sunday May 18. Get all the information at the Valley AV WINES website, and get tickets at the Eventbrite page for the 2025 Festival. Use the Promo Code MENDOCINO to get 30% off tickets to the Barbeque and the Grand Tasting.

On Friday May 16, there is a barbeque where the vintners bring special wines from their cellars. It’s a show-off opportunity and everyone brings their best. Plus, the food is fantastic.

Then on Saturday, May 17, the Grand Tasting is at Scharfenberger Cellars. It’s one of the few wine festivals that takes place right in the vineyard. In the morning, VIPs spend a few hours “in the bubble lounge” with oysters, caviar etc. In the afternoon, 45 different wineries and great food. On Sunday, the local wineries open up for visits.

California Wine Country is brought to you by Rodney Strong Vineyards and Davis Bynum Wines.

One Hour Away From Santa Rosa

To get there you drive north on highway 128 for about an hour, from Santa Rosa. It’s springtime and everything is in bloom. There will be easily 60 different wines. Dan Berger says the sub-region of Comptche (pronounced “com-CHEE”) is producing very good wine. Three years ago there was nothing coming from there. Today, they are world class. It’s remarkable that they are still unknown even in a town as large and as close as Santa Rosa.

Iron Horse Vineyards’ Joy Sterling

Fri, 25 Apr 2025 23:23:35 +0000

Joy Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Joy has been on California Wine Country before, on this episode of Sept. 27, 2017. Clark Wolf is sticking around from the previous segment to talk about the Northern California Public Media Awards that are coming back on May 10. This year’s honorees are Joy Sterling and her whole family, who are getting the recognition they deserve for all the delicious wines they make and also for all of their other work outside of winemaking.

Joy describes Iron Horse as a magical place, with stunning views across rolling hills of vines, with Mt. St. Helena in the distance. “The grapes know they are growing in a gorgeous place.” Dan Berger says its magic is a result of its location. The old road has not changed in 100 years. As you cross the bridge, it feels like you are 100 miles from anywhere. While a lot of wineries try to “turn it up so much” as Clark says, Iron Horse is natural. There is wildness thriving around them, including deer, who ate Joy’s roses. The turkey vultures that live all around northern California are thriving. Green Valley Creek bisects the property. The Coho Salmon use the river for spawning. Their farming is so careful that the water is clean.

Iron Horse has been legendary for making some of the finest Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and sparkling wines in the world, not just in Sonoma County. These wines are “really pristine” such as the 2023 Audrey Chardonnay, named after Joy’s mom. Ever since the beginning, they keep the malolactic fermentation to a minimum and they use steam-bent barrels, so there is no smoke on the wood and therefore none in the wine either. Joy describes this wine as gracious and elegant, just like her mom. Dan Berger describes it as having perfect acidity and all the components are subtle, not ostentatious. The aren’t “blow your socks off” wines, more like “glide your socks off,” says Joy.

POP goes the cork!

“Who doesn’t like a big pop? It just says “party,” says Joy. This is their 2021 Spring Rosé. It has a beautiful petal pink color and it really tastes like spring.” Dan Berger, who has an extensive personal cellar, says that these wines will improve with age in the bottle. They already have three years on the yeast. It is a limited production wine, only available at their tasting room.

The second wine they pour is the one they are best known for, Iron Horse Wedding Cuvée. Joy explains that their sparkling wines have become drier and drier, due to two factors, the increased quality of their craftsmanship and their vineyard practices. Dan Berger also gives credit to Iron Horse’s customers, who demand their quality. “We have the best customers!” says Joy. Iron Horse wines have been served at the White House for the last six consecutive administrations, as well as State Department events and to foreign dignitaries and royalty including the Queen of England.

The Intimate History of Iron Horse

Joy’s mother is a San Franciscan and her father was from Los Angeles and they lived in LA when Joy was a child. Then the family moved to France in 1967 and that is where they encountered wine. They would go on trips together to discover wine and their parents felt right at home. When they missed on a vineyard acquisition there, it may have been a blessing because by the mid-1970s they found a property in California. They have 3 generations living on the property in an 1876 house. Next year they will celebrate several big anniversaries. The USA turns 250, Iron Horse turns 50, winemaker David Munksgard celebrates 30 years making wine there.

They had a second label for a while called Tin Pony which they don’t make anymore. It was for wine made from grapes that did not make it into the Iron Horse blend. Joy said they preferred to focus on their top quality product. Dan thinks that with the market the way it is, Tin Pony could make a comeback, but Joy says she is busy enough.

Another cuvée they make is called Ocean Reserve. It is dedicated to ocean conservation. The proximity to the ocean is what gives their vineyard its character. They are 13 miles from the ocean and it is “the engine of our microclimate.”

Nolan Jones from Lava Cap Winery

Fri, 18 Apr 2025 23:23:30 +0000

Nolan Jones, winemaker at Lava Cap Winery, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Lava Cap Winery is located in the Sierra Foothills, in Placerville. It is two hours due east of Napa and Sonoma. Dan Berger says that Sierra Foothills makes great wines but there are differences between the different regions. The Sierra Nevada Foothills is one of the biggest AVAs in the state. Their vineyards are at some of the highest elevations in California, at roughly 3000 feet. That is close to the snow line. They get snow and frost in the Spring.

Nolan grew up in Placerville. His grandfather started the winery and brought his father into it. Now a retired as a Geology professor at Berkeley, he looked for a place where the climate and soil were what he wanted. They bought the property in 1979, planted in 1980 and their first vintage was the next year.

Vermentino

They begin by tasting a Vermentino which Dan Berger says is excellent. Vermentino mostly grows in Liguria and Tuscany, in north-western Italy. It is popular there and it is just starting to get recognition in California where more and more producers are making it. This Vermentino has a faint tropical note with a hint of pineapple. This is their second Vermentino vintage. It has fun, bright summer characteristics. It has been very popular since they started making it. Nolan thinks the intensity of being at high elevation produces the acidity and other flavors they want. It was fermented in stainless steel, aged on light lees for three months and then bottled.

Dan attributes this wine to the fact that we now have the technology to make wine this way. It uses cold fermentation and good quality filters. This used to be unavailable to most producers. Thanks to new reasonably priced equipment, notably from Italy, local producers can make these world class wines that require special treatment. Nolan says this highlights the California character, which is aromatic, bright and intense. Their freshness comes from the Alpine region, while most other California wines come from coastal regions.

To make a parallel, it’s like a Sauvignon Blanc but with none of the green grass flavors. Vermentino has its own spice profile that is different than Sauv Blanc. His grandfather, being a geologist, named the winery after the soil, which the old miners named Lava Cap.

Lava Cap dot com is their website, where you can buy their wines. They do 26 different SKUs, including Italian, Spanish and French grapes. El Dorado has not settled on a “signature grape” the way that other regions have. Their goal is to showcase their elevation and the volcanic soil. Dan explains that the higher you go in elevation, the cooler it gets, and that gives you the effect and benefits of cooler weather, at a time where other vineyards are experiencing warmer weather.

They go on to taste a Chardonnay which is unique due to all the unique growing and winemaking conditions at Lava Cap Winery.

Dan Barwick on Moving Back to England

Fri, 11 Apr 2025 23:23:45 +0000

Dan Barwick joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country this week to talk about his impending return to England. He has been on CWC several times in recent years, the last time was this episode last August. He is one of the founders and the winemaker for Trecini Winery. They made their first Sauvignon Blanc in 1999.

Dan has brought a New Zealand wine, a 2022 Babich Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough. It cost $4.99 at Bottle Barn. It’s not a great wine but for $4.99 it’s fine.

There’s no such thing as a terrible wine, as long as it’s reasonably priced enough. – Dan Berger.

Dan was born in Dover, England and worked at Harrod’s London in the food hall where he saw a lot of wine. He moved to Sonoma in 1991 and has been making wine for thirty years. But he is moving back to England.

They have a Chardonnay to taste, which is Russian River, 2022, barrel fermented in 500 liter neutral oak. It’s one of his favorite Chardonnays that he has ever made. Clean crisp and immensely complex. Dan Berger says it will still improve with age, or even time in decanter.

England is on the horizon, in particular the county of Kent where The Wine Garden of England is getting warmer and warmer. It is champagne country, says Dan Berger. The English have started making some great sparkling wines and they have one today. It is a non-vintage brut from Chapel Down.

Dan Barwick tells the story that the timing was right to move back to England, for a combination of reasons. Dan Berger says that it is an exciting moment for English wine and that it is a well-timed move. They are tasting the wine from Chapel Down. It is made to emulate the style of Champagne and is “gorgeous.”

16:00 What Dan Barwick Will Bring Back to England

In England, Dan Barwick will do some consulting and will be able to bring all of his experience from California. He has already begun networking. He found an old friend he hadn’t seen for forty years who says he has vineyards and asked if Dan could help him. Prospects are good.

23:00 Dan Berger: US Wine Consumer wine knowledge essentially zero.

You have to hear Dan Berger speak truth to the people about how the average American wine consumer has zero knowledge of wine and what goes with what. It starts with his deadpan hilarious observation of Chardonnay on every table in a famous Chinese restaurant, where he was having the Gewurtztraminer.

Cartograph Wines Alan Baker

Fri, 4 Apr 2025 23:23:15 +0000

Dan Berger, Alan Baker.

Cartograph Wines co-founder Alan Baker is back with us on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on the show was this episode in April of 2024, almost one year ago.

Cartograph is a label known for small-lot elegant Pinot Noir, Rieslings and sparkling wines as well, from Russian River Valley and Mendocino Ridge. Dan Berger says that if you are a wine lover, you know that the best part of that is finding these small local producers that make excellent wine. These wines are under the radar, so Alan declares they need a better radar.

Alan and his wife moved up from San Francisco in 2009 to launch the brand. Cartograph Wines has just purchased a new property in Dry Creek Valley which will become their new home and tasting room. It should be ready in about one year. There is Syrah on the property and they plan to install some art there too. For now they are in Healdsburg.

From Radio to Wine

Alan worked in radio in St. Paul, MN for sixteen years before he “caught the wine bug.” Before that he studied music and shifted into making recordings of music, which led him to NPR in the twin cities. When he tasted a certain bottle of wine, which was a 1998 Alscatian Riesling.

“That silly $13 bottle of wine changed my entire life.” – Alan Baker

Steve Jaxon has named Dan Berger “Mr. Riesling” and the nickname is well earned. Alan and Dan first interacted because they share a taste for dry Riesling. If you handle it right, it can be “bone dry” and still have a lot of fruit flavors. Cartograph has planted Riesling recently so next year they will have some to taste from their estate.

Alan did bring a Rosé, a 2024, 100% Pinot Noir, light salmon color and completely dry. 90% was pressed directly from the grapes, and they also collect the juice that comes from the sorting table. Dan believes that the screw cap is one of the secrets to California Rosé. The screw cap makes a prefect seal with no oxygen transfer at all. This way, the wine stays in perfect condition for a lot longer.

They are also tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir that Dan calls “dramatic.” There is a hint of pomegranate. The majority of the fruit in this bottle comes from their estate vineyard in Russian River Valley near Cotati. Dan says it is so close to Petaluma Gap that it could be considered a Petaluma Gap style wine. It has low alcohol, 13.7%. There is some oak, Dan calls it a “grace note” of aromatics. Dan suggests decanting it for an hour or so between opening it and tasting it.

Tariffs and Wine: Adverse Effects on the Industry

Fri, 28 Mar 2025 23:23:02 +0000

Dan Berger.

California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today includes Dan’s thoughts about tariffs and wine sales. This continues some of the subject matter he discussed on this episode of CWC three weeks ago.

Dan Berger begins by describing an online newsletter and Substack called Fermentations, written by Tom Wark. Dan says it has the most interesting perspective on the business. For the rest of today Dan and Steve will talk about some tastings and also about tariffs and the changing retail and wholesale wine market. Dan sees that the impositions of tariffs is going to be devastating throughout the wine industry. It will negatively impact foreign wine, but it will also adversely affect the entire market. 37% of retail sales are imported. If a bottle of champagne has gone from $50 to $125, buyers won’t buy. Wine prices are going to stay the same for California wine, and prices of European wine will go up.

The United States Wine Trade Alliance, representing 5,000 businesses, is attempting to lobby against the tariffs, but with dim prospects. Dan suggests looking for wines that are already here and buying what you want, now.

Layoffs, Disinvestment & Ownership Concentration

There have been layoffs in the wholesale wine business. In the last year, wineries have been going out of business. Vintage Wine Merchants has closed and Constellation has announced their intention to sell their wine properties. Mr. Foley has been buying wineries in these distressed conditions and now owns something like thirty brands. Dan says that if the tariffs stay in place for over a year, look out for big trouble. Also, Canada has stopped buying American wine and spirits too. Canada has been an important source of revenue for some California wineries.

Chardonnay, Albariño and Gamay

2023 Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay from New Zealand that comes from a winemaker named Michael Brackovich that Dan knows. The winery is not far from Auckland, on a lovely bay. The wine is delicious. No tariffs have been threatened on New Zealand and Australia, at least yet. It is a great example of southern hemisphere Chardonnay.

They also taste a Hendry 2023 Albariño, from the Napa Valley. It is a variety that grows in Portugal and Spain, and also some in California. Dan says it has the structure of Gewürztraminer but the aromatics of a Riesling only with additional orange peel flavors.

Dan has selected wines today from California, Australia and New Zealand whose prices will not change.

Finally they taste a Gamay, which is similar to Pinot Noir. This comes from a property called Mount Edward in New Zealand. It could have been made into a fruity Beaujolais style wine but this one has a little more substance. It has black pepper flavors that come from the colder climate. New Zealand makes a lot of Gamay, which usually becomes the young fruity Beaujolais style. This wine is made more like a Syrah, focussed on acidity, instead of that. Dan would pair it with a well-done hamburger with some char on it.

Cal Star Cellars, Rick Davis

Fri, 21 Mar 2025 23:23:35 +0000

Dan Berger and Rick Davis.

Rick Davis, winemaker and owner Cal Star Cellars, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. This is Rick’s first time on CWC although we have taked about his wines before.

Dan Berger says that Rick is not personally well-known because he does not promote himself. He is too busy in the winery. Rick tells his story of starting in the industry on the east coast in 1988 before coming to California in 1992. He became cellarmaster and assistant winemaker at Flower, then in 1997 he worked three vintages on the central coast. He started his own brand in 2001 with 160 cases of Zinfandel.

Flowers began as a project under the auspices of Greg La Follette and it became one of the most important brands in Sonoma County history. Dan says that the Cal Star wines are some of the best wines that nobody has ever heard about.

The Cal Star Lineup

Cal Star makes a Sauvignon Blanc, a Chardonnay, a red and a rosé from Pinot Meunier, six different Pinot Noirs (three vineyard designates and three and three AVA blends) and two Zinfandels. He only does 1200 cases per year total volume, and he works with 11 different SKUs. Dan says its virtue is that this is how to keep track of all the different vineyards.

The Sauvignon Blanc has a lot of varietal character, in Dan’s opinion. He also gets varietal character from his Lodi Zinfandels. Rick is not interested in what he calls “cocktail wine” or what Dan calls a “sipping wine.” Rick got interested in wine because he likes to cook and wanted to make wine that would match the food he cooks. That sounds like the way to end up making wines that Dan Berger will like.

Then they taste a 2023 Rosé of Pinot Meunier which Dan says is has strong cherry flavors. His account in Georgia called it a “porch pounder that will go with food.” This rosé is made direct to press, not by the bleeding-off process. Dan agrees that this method makes better Rosés.

The red Pinot Meunier is next. It is rarely made as a red wine because it is already light in color. It’s just darker than a Rosé, but it is a red. Rick describes it as Cru Beujolais without the funk factor.

Evan Damiano, Marchelle Wines winemaker

Fri, 14 Mar 2025 23:23:16 +0000

Evan Damiano, Marchelle Wines winemaker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on CWC was this episode on May 31, 2024.

Evan started in January 2021 volunteering with Greg La Follette and has risen all the way to the rank of winemaker now. Greg is one of the most famous winemakers around. He has worked in all the most famous wineries in Sonoma County and he even worked with André Tchelistscheff when he was a teen.

They have some of Dan’s 2024 Riesling in their glasses, which Greg made. It’s a barrel sample of the wine that Dan will be putting in bottles this week.

In 2022 Greg asked Evan to go into the cellar and make selections for blends. He said, “Go in there and listen to what the wines want to be. Go be with the barrels. Smell, taste and put these wines together for me.” A small amount of another wine blended in can make a huge difference in a final result. Greg La Follette is known as “The Vine Whisperer” but he also has a degree in Botany.

Dan gets his Riesling fruit from a vineyard in Mendocino County. There are a few people making Riesling around there, but nobody is making it as dry as this. This is Dan Berger’s personal quest to produce the wine he wants to taste. It’s got some tropical fruit, but also citrus lemon peel and a bit of herbal flavors. They also have some other wines from Marchelle.

2021 Manchester Ridge Chardonnay

This is the Chardonnay that Greg brought to Evan while he was in Wisconsin taking a break. Greg tries to induce shatter into the vines, which tricks the vines into making smaller berries. The Manchester Ridge vineyard is 2200 feet above sea level, on a flat mountain top.

Evan made his first harvest in Oregon in 2010 and if 16 hours per day for 21 days straight didn’t put him off the joy of winemaking, he was hooked. He did another harvest at Balletto Vineyard, with Anthony Beckman. He took a break from it but came back to it.

Dan appreciates that these wines are always authentic to the grape variety.

Wine News with Dan Berger

Fri, 7 Mar 2025 23:23:21 +0000

Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.

Steve Jaxon talks about wine news with Dan Berger on California Wine Country today, since our expected guest was a last-minute scratch.

Dan has brought a Tendu from Matthaisson in Napa Valley, made from Cortese grapes. It is a common wine in Piedmont, the province of north-western Italy, whose capital is Torino.

American wine consumption is down in every category , except Sauvignon Blanc was the only one up in sales. One reason is the influx of good Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand. This caused the category to expand. There is the Sancerre, Pouilly-Fumé French styles, the California style and now the New Zealand style. From region to region the styles are all different. In the US, Sauvignon Blanc was up almost 4%, while everything else was down between 4 and 8 % in sales. Tasting rooms and wineries are closing. Discount pricing is rampant.

Young people are drinking all kinds of other things, even hard seltzer or non-alcoholic products.

Market Cycles in the Wine Industry

Wine has been with us for thousands of years, so the industry has to wait for the cycle to turn, maybe a year or two. Sometimes wine news is old news. There was a downturn in 2009 and within 18 months the business was back.

Dan says that the 2024 vintage is excellent. The 2024 white wines and Rosés are starting to show up in the stores now.

Pedroncelli winery in Dry Creek Valley is a thriving winery. Montse Reese their winemaker has been on the show. Also Julie Pedroncelli was on this episode last January. They have owned their land for almost 100 years.

Dan opens a Kerner which is Riesling crossed with Trollinger, a red grape. It is a white wine from the Alto-Adige region of north-eastern Italy.

Wineries used to operate tasting rooms at a profit, but that has changed. A lot of wineries have closed that were all producing the same wines, Chardonnay and Cabernet. Julie Pedroncelli explained how a winery has to set itself apart somehow, which they have done.

Michigan is producing great wine. Look for Chateau Grand Traverse, the old reliable.

Tom Gendall, winemaker at Cline Family Cellars

Fri, 28 Feb 2025 23:23:44 +0000

Tom Gendall, winemaker at Cline Family Cellars is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Cline Family Cellars has been featured on this show before, most recently when Fred Cline and his daughter Hillary Cline were on this episode on January 4, 2023.

Tom Gendall from Cline Family Cellars is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The Cline family has been on this show before, most recently when Fred Cline and his daughter Hillary Cline were on this episode on January 4, 2023.

Tom was born and raised in Christchurch, New Zealand and has wine experience in both hemispheres. He also made wine in Germany. Some of the Cline family vineyards were planted as early as 1904. They survived Prohibition and Phylloxera. They started making wine under this label in 1984.

Hold on to your hat!

The first wine they will taste is the 2023 Chardonnay from Carneros, where you had better strap your hat on because the wind will carry it off. Tom describes the process that produced it, but he gives credit to the great fruit from that year. From year to year, they finished picking month later than before. In 2024 they finished picking on the 16th of October and in 2023 they finished on the 12th of November. It was a cooler year so the grapes could stay on the vine almost a month longer than the year before. Dan remembers the vintage of 2010 and 2011, which were both cool vintages. 2023 was like that but even better. It is great now but in 10 years will be even better.

Tom Gendall is one of the two winemakers at Cline Family Cellars. The other is Katie Hoggins. She is also from New Zealand and has also worked around the world making wine. He compares their collaboration to building, as if he were the architect and she is the engineer.

Dan describes the Cline Family Cellars history as having been through everything imaginable in more than a century of growing grapes.

They survived Phylloxera because their vines grow in sand which does not bear phylloxera. The secret to their balance is the lees contact that they give to the wine, which imparts flavor. Tom describes how the root systems feed flavor into the vines and the grapes.

Later in the show Melissa Galliani joins the group and Tom opens a Mourvèdre which is ra

Dennis Hill from Langhart-Hill Wines

Fri, 21 Feb 2025 23:23:41 +0000

Dan and Dennis

Dennis Hill, co-founder of Langhart & Hill Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country today. The last time he was on California Wine Country was this episode in September of 2023.

The first tasting is a 2023 Chardonnay. While a lot of California Chards are the heavy oaky buttery ML style, this is different. It is more in the European style, higher acidity and better for pairing with food. They use high quality grapes from Sonoma County so there are a lot of fruit flavors in it.

Dennis Hill and his wife were both raised in Healdsburg. There was a Renaissance in the wine industry in the 1970s when he was starting in the business – right place, right time. Healdsburg is located at the confluence of the Dry Creek River and the Russian River. That puts it at the intersection of three main viticultural areas, Dry Creek, Anderson Valley and Russian River Valley. In the northern part of this region the afternoons are hotter and in the southern part, it is cooler and foggier.

Where to find Langhart & Hill wines

Langhart & Hill wines are available in restaurants and some retail locations. They do not have a tasting room. Their production is still rather small for that.

After working for some very large wineries with complicated operations and relationships, Dennis enjoys being able to work by himself. Their vineyards are located in the different climate zones described, so there is a four-week window for them to harvest everything.

Dennis describes their two brands. Landhart & Hill are classic Sonoma County varieties, a Chard, two Pinot Noirs, a Rosé and a Merlot. They also have another label, Rumplestiltskin, which is for the less common varieties. For instance, today there is a Dobricic, a Croation variety, and an Orange wine, made of Trouseau Gris grapes originally from the Jura region in France. Trousseau is a Gris variety, not purely a white grape. Wine grapes come in three colors, black, aka red, white and gris, meaning gray. There is also Trousseau Noir. It’s a tricky grape to use. You have to harvest not too soon or too late. Then, if you want Orange wine, you have to leave it on the skins just long enough.

Brooks Note Wines owner Garry Brooks

Fri, 14 Feb 2025 23:23:58 +0000

Dan Berger and Garry Brooks.

Garry Brooks, owner of Brooks Note Wines, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. This is his first time on CWC.

Garry grew up in Annapolis, Maryland. As he grew up the family had wine on the table. He served in the US Navy and got sent to France and Spain where he had a chance to learn about wine all over the world. After the Navy he ended up in northern California and planted some vines in his sister-in-law’s garden. He was working in middle management in the tech world and his wife convinced him to take the great leap and make a career change. He attended UC Davis then worked at Ravenswood, Acacia, Kosta Brown and Dutton Goldfield. Then he and his wife started Brooks Note in 2012.

The first tasting is a Chardonnay. Garry likes Chardonnay to be “a little bit restrained.” It is made with grapes from three different vineyards. Dan finds that it has rich mid-palette and good acidity and subtle character. Dan would decant it for about two hours.

Petaluma Gap

Dan explains how Petaluma Gap wines get their special character. The wind makes the big difference. The acidity is going to be higher because of that. There is consistent wind every day in Petaluma Gap. The vines slow their sugar production down and it lets the grapes develop more flavor. The skins become thicker and the plants get a longer growing season. Garry has a lot of ways of describing it (about 9 minutes in). They can pick grapes as much as a month later than in other regions.

They are also tasting a 2023 Pinot Noir. Of course it is very young. It comes from four different vineyards in Petaluma Gap. Taylor’s Crown, with high elevation and volcanic soil, then Panther Ridge vineyard, rocky basalt and pumice, some from Paradise Vineyard which gets blasted by the wind and the last from Zyer Ranch.

The Steven Kent Winery

Fri, 7 Feb 2025 23:20:37 +0000

Steven Kent

Steven Kent, owner of The Steven Kent Winery in Livermore Valley, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country.

Dan Berger recently visited Livermore with his friend, winemaker Clark Smith, to investigate Cabernet Franc. Steven given Cabernet Franc a privileged position in his portfolio. For centuries, Cabernet Franc has been used as a blending grape, but Steven says it can do a whole lot more. He has brought four Cabernet Francs for tasting today,

Steven Kent’s son is the seventh generation of Kent family winemakers. In 1854 they started making wine in San José. The Livermore Valley was a wine producing region forty years before Sonoma County. Steven says that Cabernet Franc and the Livermore Valley both deserve more recognition. Dan attended a Cabernet Franc festival there recently and there were a lot of people there who are very enthusiastic about Cab Franc.

Cab Franc: not just a blending grape.

Cabernet Franc gets harvested about 2 weeks earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon. It has less tannin and more aromatics with some dried herb character. In some ways it is a finer variety. Dan calls Cab Franc the father and Cab Sauvignon, “the wild and wooly teenage son.”

For people who are looking for a slightly different approach to red wine, Cab Franc is a good choice. It is graceful and doesn’t have the same power as Cab Sauvignon.

They have a 2022 Cab Franc from the Ghielmetti vineyard. Livermore is hot by day but gets cold at night. The nearby Altamont pass is a windy place, which extends the growing season. They would normally harvest this in early November. It gets no new oak.

Dan Berger says, “This is red wine of a very serious nature but without any of the heavy tannins or the over-ripe components that sometimes creep into bigger, richer, oilier wines that are aged in barrels.” He also calls it “the Pinot Noir of Cabernet.” Dan would give it two to three more years, but it doesn’t need much smoothing because it’s already more than half way there.

Located in Livermore

They are located on Vasco Road in Livermore. Their tasting room is in a light industrial area, with seven other wineries nearby, known call the place “Vasco Row.” They buy 95% of their fruit from their local friends, and the remaining portion from the Santa Cruz area.

They have a club lounge at the winery for their members. Dan calls it “uncontaminated by tourists.” The Kents are the oldest continuous winemaking family in the country. Lineage is another label that they produce. When he and his father Steven Kent Senior opened Steven Kent Winery, they wanted to produce high quality Bordeaux style wines. After working with a lot of Rhone varietals, he wanted to return to Bordeaux styles. In 2007 he started Lineage as a Bordeaux blend and so they could produce elegant age-worthy wines that would go well with food. The one they are tasting is the 2017. Dan says it is well-balanced. It’s called Lineage because it represents the family history in winemaking.

Barbara Barrielle

Fri, 31 Jan 2025 23:23:23 +0000

Barbara Barrielle

Barbara Barrielle, publicist, writer, actress and producer, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. She writes about travel, wine, food and entertainment and she also works for Anderson Valley Winegrowers, promoting the International White Wine Festival. Her documentary film about Anderson Valley wines features Dan Berger.

The Anderson Valley Winegrowers Association is putting on the International White Wine Festival. The festival used to be called the Alsatian Wine Festival because it focused on Alsatian aromatic whites that grow in Anderson Valley. The valley is also known for Pinot Noir now. The new name of the festival opens the door to other whites that are also growing in Anderson Valley. Dan Berger will be in charge of the Rieslings. There will also be Pinot Gris, Gewürtztraminer and lots of others.

As an example, Dan has brought a dry Riesling from Ra Ra Wines. Ra Ra wines is run by winemaker Kara Groom who was on this episode of CWC last year on Feb. 16. 2024.

Cole Ranch grows the best Riesling in California

The fruit comes from Cole Ranch, which grows the best Riesling in Mendocino County. They have a total of 81 acres and only four and a half of Riesling. Riesling and Cabernet Franc are selling well, but all the other California varieties are down. This is in the context of a huge downturn in overall wine sales.

Anderson Valley also produces fine sparkling wines. The best known brands are Sharffenberger and Roderer. In about 1980 the Roderer company in Champagne, France, decided to look for property in the US. Their agent hired the Foppiano family to take him around to different properties. They found a ridge where the influence of marine air flow was arriving. They decided to plant a couple of acres of vines as a test, which went well. To this day, Roderer is making the best sparkling wines in the US. They compare well to Iron Horse, the best American maker. Lichen Estate also makes excellent product. There are small producers like Pennyroyal Farms and Navarro that also have sparkling wine production.

Henry Belmonte of VJB Cellars SPECIAL

Mon, 27 Jan 2025 23:22:22 +0000

Henry Belmonte and Madisyn Goerlitz

Henry Belmonte and Madisyn Goerlitz are here from VJB Cellars and Wellington Cellars, on a special podcast-only edition of California Wine Country, recorded last week on Jan. 20 on The Drive with Steve Jaxon, on Wine Country Radio.

Henry Belmonte and Steve Jaxon go way back together. Steve used to say he lived at Portofino on 4th Street. VJB Cellars in Kenwood is a place with a family story behind it. They made a migration from the restaurant industry to the wine industry, as a family business. After his brother’s passing, he named his winery after him by the initials VJB. They make wine but they are also still focused on hospitality and providing a great experience, environment and atmosphere. They apply the same philosophy to making wine.

Henry’s mother ran the kitchen at Portofino and also still directs the elaborate traditional Italian offerings at VJB Cellars.

VJB Cellars makes 95% Italian varietals. Wellington Cellars, their other winery down the road, focusses on French varietals. VJB has about 20 different Italian varietals, all of the ones that are popular in Italy. Some of them are very small runs, 200-300 cases. You have to be in the wine club to access these wines.

From Food to Wine

Belmonte’s Deli was their first venture into restaurants, in the late ‘70s and ‘80s. It was a springboard to open Portofino’s in Santa Rosa on Columbus Day in 1987.

VJB Cellars is like walking into a small town in Italy, with an expansive piazza with tables and chairs. There are storefronts, for the deli, tasting room, a Tommy Bahama boutique store and a chocolate and gelato shop. May 26, 2003 they opened their doors as a stand-alone tasting room. He knew he had to bring something they were really good at, into the shop to make it more attractive. It took about 7 or 8 years to build out the full operation, with all the feeling for hospitality, experience and entertainment along with the finest flavors.

Wellington Cellars came about when they outgrew their production facilities for VJB. He and his father found the Wellington property down the road which came up for sale. They were really just looking for production, but it turned out to be a bonus that the whole operation was already there.

Maria Gabriella Belmonte is Henry’s mother was the guiding force at Portofino and has the same role now at La Cucina and the Red Rooster Kitchen in Petaluma. She has passed her knowledge and insight over to Henry.

About That Italian Sausage Pizza

You can see all of that knowledge at work in the pizza that Henry has brought for Steve to taste, and in the pride that Henry takes in making it. It is an Italian Sausage pizza from Red Rooster Kitchen. They make their own dough from scratch. They also make their own pork sausage and their own sauce from fresh tomatoes. Everything is as fresh as it can be. The accolades for this pizza have come from far and wide.

Madisyn Goerlitz

Madisyn Goerlitz also tells about her role as Social Media manager for VJB Cellars and Wellington Cellars. She was a student at Sonoma State University and had to finish her last terms online during Covid. So her goal, which she has achieved, was to make it back to Sonoma County after all that. She is developing her role in hospitality and marketing and is “…happy to be part of the story.”

Anderson Valley’s International White Wine Festival

Fri, 24 Jan 2025 23:23:46 +0000

Courtney DeGraff, Executive Director of Anderson Valley Winegrowers, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. They are putting on the International White Wine Festival, for the fifteenth year, on February 15 and 16 at the Mendocino County Fairgrounds.

It used to be called the Alsatian White Wine Festival. The name change opens the festival to feature a wider variety of wines, such as Grüner Veltliner and Chardonnay. Dan Berger will be in charge of the Rieslings. The in-person Grand Tasting is at the Fairgrounds in Booneville, on Saturday. Early access from 11 to 12 and general access from 12 to 3. Go to this page at the AV Wines website for more info about the International White Wine Festival and for links to purchase tickets. Use the discount code RADIO for 20% off.

Anderson Valley is growing in Chardonnay production. Most of the fruit used to go to sparkling wines but they are also producing some very nice still Chardonnays now.

Scharffenberger Sparkling Wine

Barry Herbst has brought a Scharffenberger sparkling wine, which he considers to be a great value. They make six or seven different kinds of sparkling wine. It is also a beautiful property to visit, in Philo.

Dan calls it more persistent in its flavor profile, with more structure. It’s $21.99 at Bottle Barn. The winemaker Jeffery Jindra came over from Husch Vineyards.

Dan Berger reports that there are several Napa valley growers who are also buying property in Anderson Valley. It is a more relaxed setting. It’s definitely worth a visit. There are also other attractions like beer and cheese making.

Bottle Barn is in the process of putting out the San Francisco Chronicle Competition winners. They will have about a hundred different awarded wines. After that, the Press Democrat limited competition (north of the Golden Gate) takes place. Barry’s other wines today are the Maggy Hawk Chardonnay, a Gewurtztraminer from Husch and a Goldeneye Brut Rosé. They are all pictured in the top illustration and are also all available at Bottle Barn.

Ross Cobb from Cobb Wines with Ziggy the Wine Gal

Fri, 17 Jan 2025 23:23:36 +0000

Cobb Wines tasted today.

Ross Cobb from Cobb Wines and Ziggy the Wine Gal from The Krush join Steve Jaxon on California Wine Country. Dan Berger is away this week. Ross Cobb first met Ziggy when he was at Williams Selyem in 1998 or 99, while he was working with Bob Cabral there. Cobb Wines is a winery inspired by creative freedom. A quote from Patti Smith provides context. Robb was always motivated by music and he lets “…Patti Smith explain the rest.” Ross has also been working with Les Claypool’s Pachyderm Wines

They start by tasting the Cobb Wines Riesling, from a 14-15 acre vineyard at a high elevation. It is officially the smallest appellation in America. The soil is limestone, at 1200 feet. It is the last of the Sonoma Coast vineyards that he picks every year. The fermentation is long and slow. He just tasted his 2024 vintage, which began last Fall, so even that step comes late with this wine. It is balanced between fruit and alcohol. How about some sushi? Fresh oysters? Fresh Dungeness crab? Ziggy says it is a dry Riesling that should go with “dry January” whatever that is.

Ross Cobb’s 25th Vintage

Ross grew up in Valley Ford and his dad worked at Bodega Marine Lab. They were friends with other families that made wine in the area. The family moved away and later he went to UC Santa Cruz to study Soil Science and Environmental Engineering. They have lived at Coastlands Vineyard since 1989. He worked for a lot of different wineries in northern California. In 2001 He started Cobb Wines and this year will be his 25th vintage.

He only started making the dry Riesling in 2016. He also makes Chardonnay in the traditional way, not the big buttery style that Ziggy calls “Chateau Two by Four” with too much oak.

Cobb Wines dot com is the website with all of the wines they have today, available for sale. They are also at Bottle Barn and many local restaurants. They aren’t a tasting room but they can receive guests.

Arista Winery

Fri, 10 Jan 2025 23:23:27 +0000

Dan and Mark.

Mark McWilliams from Arista Winery is our guest on this edition of California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.

Dan’s weekly cellar dweller bottle is a 2022 Chenin Blanc from Les Atlètes du Vin in France. $15 a bottle at Bottle Barn. Chenin Blanc is coming back. You can get 7-9 tons an acre of Chenin Blanc and it makes nice wine. Mike says it’s refreshing.

Mark’s parents started as grape growers when he was young. They grew a lot of Cabernet. His mom lived in Burgundy after college and got to know Pinot Noir. They family felt a calling to make wine. In 2002 they started the Arista brand to make wine. They use their own grapes and grapes grown elsewhere. Their Chardonnays have been very highly rated. In December they did a 10-year retrospective tasting of their Chardonnay. In 2013 their new winemaker Matt McCourtney was on the job. Now those wines are aging very well and still have years to go.

Arista’s style has been to focus on the fruit, not on manipulating the wine to make something that the grapes don’t want to do. Acidity is always front and center in their wines. They also have the 2021 Russian River Valley Chardonnay. The appellation wines are the top of their production. Wines like this which are not single-vineyard estate wines, are put together on purpose to combine elements ideally. This wine has so much complexity that it promises to age well.

Arista is the shining star of California Chardonnays

Steve Jaxon quotes Wine Spectator, which declared, “Arista Wines are the shining star of California Chardonnays.” Mark says that’s because they use the best fruit and they have the best staff. There is a hazelnut component in the flavors that Dan detects. It resembles Meursault which is a district in Burgundy. The wines have trace flavors of hazelnut. There is also a lemon peel component in the nose. But the wine is only 3 years old. “A great Chardonnay like this really deserves time in bottle,” says Dan “Lay It Down” Berger. Mark declares that there is world-class Chardonnay coming from California and Oregon and that Burgundy no longer is the only place that makes the best wine from that varietal.

Julie Pedroncelli St. John

Fri, 3 Jan 2025 23:23:16 +0000

Julie Pedroncelli St. John is back as a guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Her last time on this show was this episode of April 26, 2023. The Pedroncelli family winery began when her grandparents bought some property in Dry Creek Valley that contained a vineyard, a home and a shuttered winery. This was seven years before the repeal of Prohibition. They sold grapes and then after Prohibition was repealed in December, 1933 they started producing wine. They have been family-owned and operated ever since then.

The Dry Creek Valley has ideal conditions for certain grapes including Sauvignon Blanc and Zinfandel. The Pedroncelli property is on the hillside. Different ends of the property have different microclimates and today they farm about 11 different varieties on all of their vineyards. By owning the property the wine production is not subject to the financial pressure of a mortgage.

Winemaker Montse Reese

Their winemaker in Montse Reese who just celebrated 18 years there. Everything they grow comes into the winery. They also buy from growers all around Dry Creek Valley. The Zinfandel they are tasting today is an example of their product that comes from their own vineyards and from other local growers.

There is a tab on the Pedroncelli website called Vino in my Dino, which comes from the Flintstone’s Dino the Dinosaur cup. When Julie was 5 years old her first taste of wine, watered down, of course, came from one of those.

Julie has brought a 2023 Chardonnay that comes from F. Johnson vineyard in southern Dry Creek Valley. The winemaker Montse Reese put it in French oak barrels for 8 months, and it undergoes malolactic fermentation sur lies. This makes a wine with complex citrus and melon flavors. It is a candidate for at least a year of aging but is already tasty. It has a wild tropical fruit component which suggests that the wine will improve with aging or when decanted. “Time in bottle or time in the air,” giving aeration helps a lot, says Dan.

Mike Carpenter, The Redd Collection

Fri, 27 Dec 2024 23:23:50 +0000

Brandi, Dan, Steve and Mike.

Mike Carpenter, The Redd Collection owner is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. His last time on the show was this episode on November 3, 2023.

Dan Berger has brought a magnum of a wine that he himself made 33 years ago. It is a 1991 Cabernet from the Napa Valley. Its aging was in an old French oak barrel. It was a project for his family, when his sons were young, the youngest was 4 that year. They opened it last night and it was still really good.

Mike Carpenter from the Redd Collection is back on California Wine Country. The Redd Collection is a wine retail business that is built on a stock of old, rare and collectable wines. There are some rare wines, such as an old vine Chablis, from 2020. Dan Berger says this is French style Chardonnay “to beat the band.” This drinks like a $100 bottle but sells for $45, says Mike.

The Redd Collection began with a large inventory acquired from a single collector. His name was close to Redd, and the client did not want his own name on it, so the name Redd is a derivation from that.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

Mike used to work in a wine store in LA, where there was a stock that is boring and overwhelming. “150 feet of the same varietal.” He wanted wines that were unique, old and rare. Dan points out that these wines are already aged, so the wines have the mature character that you cannot get from underaged wines. Also, it is expensive to store wine properly. Dan also mentions that these wines have been carefully vetted, for origin and quality but also for how they have been kept. The first thing that goes in the fruit, when a wine has not been aged properly.

The Zelma Long collection

He is currently offering private collection of a famous Napa Valley winemaker named Zelma Long. There is a wide selection of wines that go back to the ‘50s and ’60s. The oldest is a half bottle of 1929 wine. Zelma Long was a great collector of wine. She was a winemaker at Robert Mondavi. He wrote in his book that losing Zelma Long from his staff was his biggest regret. She became the winemaker at Simi for a long time. She became the president at Simi which made her the first woman top executive at a major winery.

Dan Berger Selections with Melissa Galliani

Fri, 20 Dec 2024 23:23:26 +0000

Melissa and Dan

Dan Berger selections are the focus today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, with Melissa Galliani special guest. Melissa was also on the show on this episode just about a couple of months ago, on Nov. 1, 2024.

Joy Sterling from Iron Horse Vineyards was due to be our guest today but at the last minute she was not available. Instead, we have a table of Dan Berger’s selections, including one from Iron Horse, for tasting and discussion. Melissa Galliani (Wine Country Radio General Manager) is also in the studio today.

Dan’s cellar wine is a 2017 St. Andrews Chardonnay which brings up the subject of the currently depressed wine market. Dan offers some reasons for it, including the plethora of other beverages that are available for drinkers. One of them is RTD which means ready-to-drink cocktails in a can.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

This Chardonnay is from Wakefield, in Clare Valley, Australia. It has a little bit of toasted hazelnut flavors, along with fruit flavors that are still strong, apple and pineapple. Wakefield also makes a Shiraz and a dry Riesling that Dan likes.

Australia consumes a lot of wine, although they are working under some restrictions on total alcohol. The Australian consumer cares about flavor profiles, which are stronger when alcohol is lower. The driving laws in Australia are also quite strict. If you can keep the alcohol below 14% you can pay 50 cents per gallon less in taxes.

The next tasting is a much y0unger wine, a 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand. “Whoa! This is a whole different ball game!” says Steve. This comes from Marlborough. It has an “unbelievable” nose. It’s a little sweet but has plenty of acid. It comes from a property that Gallo purchased in New Zealand about 20 years ago.

We have seen lots of wine coming from New Zealand in the last few years, including lots of Sauvignon Blancs. Dan’s opinion is that their cold climate Pinot Noirs are the most interesting wines coming from there and they are also some of the most popular wines in the country.

Dry Creek Vineyard winemaker Tim Bell

Fri, 13 Dec 2024 23:23:56 +0000

Dry Creek Vineyard winemaker Tim Bell is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. Tim has been on CWC a few times but the last one was this episode on August 4, 2021.

Dan Berger gives credit to Tim Bell for making wines that are interesting for their subtlety. He tells how his first exposure to wine was in retail. He went to UC Davis, worked at a custom crush facility for a while, then at Freemark Abbey for 10 years making Rutherford Cabernet. From there he worked at Kunde estate, where they had more then 600 acres of vineyards. After five years there, he got the opportunity to move to Dry Creek Vineyard. It is one of the rare family-owned wineries that is still in the hands of the original family owners. The other winemaker is Brian Pruett.

Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley

Dan Berger talks about when David Stare planted Sauvignon Blanc in Dry Creek Valley, he had an intuition that it would work, but nobody knew yet. Tim describes a lot of the varietals that they have planted.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They have a 2022 Chardonnay from Marchelle, Greg La Follette’s brand. After all these whites, they also have some Zinfandel. Dry Creek Vineyards claims credit for being the first winery to use the term “Old Vines” on the label. There are several old vineyards in the area that are also family-owned, which produce fruit that they use. These vineyards are field blends of Zinfandel with a scattering of other varieties. There are head-trained vines and are dry farmed. Dan detects a violet spice and bay leaf flavors. But the best part is the structure, which makes it ideal for food like pizza. The one they are tasting is a 2021.

Clark Smith WineSmith Unusual Varietals

Fri, 6 Dec 2024 23:23:34 +0000

Dan Berger and Clark Smith.

Clark Smith is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger, to discuss WineSmith unusual varietals and more. Clark Smith is an influential wine consultant, university instructor, scientist and musician. That is his website, Who Is Clark Smith? which is about wine and more. He is also one of the most frequently appearing guests in the history of California Wine Country. His most recent CWC show is this one last May.

Clark Smith applies the full spectrum of creative powers to making wine. He is known for making wine from unusual varietals, many that nobody has heard of. Dan Berger has known Clark Smith for decades and their conversation is one of hundreds they have had about wine over the years. This is the full unedited live show, nearly an hour of Dan and Clark’s combined experience.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

Clark Smith has brought a Chardonnay that he made, in a Faux Chablis style. A lot of people have grown tired of the big buttery toasty Chardonnays. That wine can be made in a very different way that gives it a steely, mineral flavor, not the oaky creamy kind that comes from ML (malolactic fermentation). As an example of WineSmith unusual varietals, it is at least an alternative way of making a common varietal. This is a 2003, so it is well-aged.

This wine is an example of Clark’s Forgeries and Oddities. This is Clark’s other website, WineSmith Wines, devoted entirely to wine.

Williams Selyem Winemaker Jeff Mangahas

Fri, 22 Nov 2024 23:23:42 +0000

Jeff Mangahas

Winemaker Jeff Mangahas from Williams Selyem Winery is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon today. Jeff has been on this show a few times before, the most recent was this episode from last March.

Williams Selyem produces a limited quantity of wine in the Russian River Valley, primarily Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Most of their wines come from a single vineyard and so they express varietal and terroir characteristics. While Williams Selyem wines are very famous among well-informed wine enthusiasts, it does not have enough production for its fame to be as widespread as others who make more product and can get it out into more places. Dan Berger calls Williams Selyem, “…one of Sonoma County’s greatest wines.”

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

The founders Ed Selyem and Burt Williams were early garagistes making wine in the late ‘70s. They came out with the 1985 Rocchioli Vineyard bottling that won the California State Fair Sweepstakes in 1987. After that, demand shot up and they had to allocate individual bottles of wine to people.

Jeff’s first career was as a cancer research biologist with a degree in molecular biology from University of Washington. He became curious about wine while living in the pacific northwest. Wanting to try something different, he took a degree from UC Davis in viticulture and enology and has been working in the Russian River Valley since then.

They make many individual bottlings of single vineyard varietals, and Jeff is happy that he gets to work with the same top quality vineyards year after year. “Greatness in the bottle starts with greatness in the vineyard.” Because they are a vineyard-designate specialist, each wine has a unique profile that is a reflection of the location.

Christian Adams from the German Wine Collection

Fri, 15 Nov 2024 23:23:55 +0000

Christian Adams from The German Wine Collection is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.

Christian has brought three different German wines, each from a different producer. The 2021 Pinot Blanc is the first wine tasted. Its name Weissburgunder is German for Pinot Blanc, literally it means ‘White Burgundian.’

You don’t see much Pinot Blanc here in California but there is some in Menocino County and even in Idaho which Dan says is excellent. Also, Germany is producing “an unbelievable array” of delicious wines from new and different varieties. Christian likes the German Pinot Blancs that have “the tri-fecta” of good acidity, fruit and minerality all together.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

The next wine tasting is the estate Chardonnay from Friedrich Becker. It was fermented in German oak barrels, and spends about 5 months in the fine lees. It has undergone malolactic fermentation but not so much to overpower the minerality. Dan says he prefers this style even if there is really only a trace of oak.

The German Wine Collection

The German Wine Collection began from a portfolio put together by Rudy Wiest Selections. Dan laments that at the time, there were too many sommeliers who did not know the German wines, to everyone’s detriment.

The last tasting is a Pinot Noir. The entry-level estate Pinot Noir gets a “wow” from Steve. It is not Burgundian nor is it New World, says Dan. But it has a combination of delicacy and richness. Dan gets flavors of fresh beets, blueberry jam and the acidity in the aftertaste that you get from German wines. Christian makes bratwurst and found some old recipes that were handwritten. He has been able to make and recreate these flavors and styles that you can’t get any other way.

Nalle Winery with Doug Nalle

Fri, 8 Nov 2024 23:23:24 +0000

Doug Nalle, co-founder of Nalle Winery, is our guest today on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. The last time Doug was on the show was this episode of April 19, 2023.

Doug Nalle and Dan Berger have been friends for fifty years. They have three Chardonnays to taste. First, a 2021 Chardonnay from Hopkins Ranch.

Doug and his wife Lee founded the winery in 1984 and they just finished their 41st harvest. They produce about 2000 cases per year. Mostly they make Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel. Their Chardonnay is about 200 cases. Doug’s son Andrew is the winemaker now. He got a degree in enology from Fresno State. His wife April is a viticulturalist who went to Australia for training and works with the winery. They have roughly 24 acres of grapes and they use some and sell some. His wife’s family bought property in Dry Creek Valley 95 years ago and it is still in the family.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

Doug has brought two 2021 Zinfandels. Dan describes the Nalle property as “spectacular.” They have an above-ground cave. It is grade level with retaining walls on two sides. There are 6 feet of dirt stacked inside the walls, so the interior is naturally cool like an underground space.

Back in the 80s and 90s Zinfandel was a moderate alcohol wine, between 13 and 14 % ABV. Then the trend was for higher ABV but Doug did not follow that trend.

Vertical tasting of 3 Chardonnays

They are tasting the 2021, 2022 and 2023 Chardonnays from Bob and Tony Hopkins’ vineyard in Russian River Valley. The 2021 is smooth and pure fruit. The 2022 has an extra layer of something.

Nalle Winery is open Friday Saturday and Sunday and maybe other days too at 2383 Dry Creek Road. Exit in Healdsburg and go west about 2.1 miles to their sign.

The 2023 is young, obviously and has barely been bottled. It is interesting to taste one that is so young just to know where the wines start out. Then the starting point for aging is five years, in Dan Berger’s opinion. Doug Nalle give credit to his son Andrew for the quality of the 2023. Andrew just finished a Masters degree in Enology at Fresno State. He studied particular strains of yeast and ways to use them.

Zinot Noir

Zinot Noir is something Doug and Andrew came up with by blending 60% Zinfandel and 40% Pinot Noir. They liked it for the forward fruit of Zin plus some “mysterious Pinot Noir thing going on.” It is a modest 13.65 ABV and they made only 280 cases of it.

Melissa Galliani and Dan Berger

Fri, 1 Nov 2024 23:23:12 +0000

Meissa and Dan.

California Wine Country today features Melissa Galliani, GM of Wine Country Radio, with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Melissa is a frequent guest on the show, and was with us most recently on this episode with winemaker Dennis McCarter.

Dan Berger’s first wine today is a 2023 that comes from Bibiana Ravé called Shared Notes. It is 75% Sauvignon Blanc and 25% Semillon, aged on the lees for a long time. That is what gives it a silky texture. It sells for $80 and it is hard to find because they don’t make very much of it.

Next is a Vermentino. Where the last wine is subtle, this one is “in your face.” Dan Berger made this Vermentino himself. This is the 2023 bottling. The grower in Carneros is Las Brisas Vineyard. It is on a rise that overlooks the bay. There aromas of peaches and a little bit of pineapple. It is 100% natural and sells for $28 on Dan’s Bahl Fratty website. “…almost effervescent on the tongue,” as Melissa observes. This is Dan’s second year of making wine and he has moved his operation to a new location. The Vermentino was made at Ektimo Winery.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

Gruner Veltliner

The next wine is a Gruner Veltliner from Austria. It’s the most popular white wine in Austria and goes perfectly with Austrian style cuisine. Melissa makes a comparison between Austrian Wiener Schnitzel and Texas chicken fried steak and Steve waxes nostalgic for some. It’s only slightly sweet but is delicious. “Wow! That is a smooth sucker!” exclaims the host.

Next they are tasting a 2022 Governor’s Bay Sauvignon Blanc. It has typical New Zealand gooseberry and passion fruit flavors. Gooseberries are sweet and tart. There is also the under-ripe grapefruit flavor always there.

The next wine is a 2023 Diatom Chardonnay that has gotten rave reviews. It is all from Santa Barbara County, in a place where the soil is made of diatomaceous earth. In fact, DE filters are Diatomaceous Earth. The Diatom Chardonnay is produced by Brewer Clifton, a prominent Santa Barbara brand. It has more peach and pineapple components. There is no secondary fermentation and it is “quite soft.” They didn’t chill it but that would work well for it.

There is a DOC Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, Villa Borghetti from Italy, that is made with Pink Pinot Grigio grapes. It retails for $5.99 at Trader Joe’s. Pinot Grigio grapes will turn pink if you let them stay on the vine for an extra week or two or three.

Dan has a Pinot Noir, a 2019 Scherrer Green Valley Pinot Noir, from the Halberg Vineyard. Dan calls it “outrageously good.” “Fantastic,” says Steve. Melissa likes the spicy character that comes from Green Valley fruit.

Greg La Follette, Marchelle Wines

Fri, 25 Oct 2024 23:23:58 +0000

Greg La Follette, Marchelle Wines founder and winemaker, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Greg is coming from the winery, where they are busy with harvest time. He is going right back too, after the show.

He was a chemist and did some work in early Aids research and then went back to school in food science and enology. Greg had the good fortune to work at Beaulieu Vineyards under André Tchelistcheff. They had similar technical backgrounds. André challenged Greg, telling him that he would learn the heart and soul of wine if he came to work for him, rather than stay in the lab. Greg turned out to become one of André’s greatest disciples.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They are drinking a Colombard, which was once the most widely planted white wine grape up until the early ‘7. Now, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most planted.

Colombard and Cinsault

This 2022 Colombard is from two vineyards in Russian River Valley, planted respectively in 1902 and 1961. “It has a lot of bracing acidity,” and is only about 10.8% alcohol. Greg and his wife were working with owners of an abandoned Colombard vineyard, to restore it. Then, Single Thread restaurant in Healdsburg asked Greg to make their house wine. The only proviso was, no Chardonnay and it had to be from Sonoma County. Colombard was perfect for that, but after the pandemic there was too much of it so they relabeled it. They named it Marchelle, after their wives Mara and Michelle. Their daughter Sophia designed the label.

Marchelle wines are not really widely available but the best way to get them is at a tasting. Book that at their website.

The Historic Vineyard Society will hold its main event in Lodi, California. There are actually a lot of old vines around Lodi.

Evan Damiano is the winemaker for Greg La Follette now. Evan was on CWC earlier this year and he gives credit to Greg and André’s legacy and influence over his own work.

Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini

Fri, 18 Oct 2024 23:23:18 +0000

Taft Street Winery co-founder Mike Martini is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Mike was last on CWC on this episode of on September 15, 2023.

In 1979 there was hardly any Pinot Noir planted in the Russian River Valley. When Mike decided to open this property, it was risky because the region had not yet developed its reputation. Other better financed growers made a bigger impression. Mike describes their secret to success as a balance between ignorance and passion. They started making wine in the garage in 1978. His late partner Mike was the only man he knew who could fall asleep in his chair holding a wine glass and never spill a drop.

An “Interesting” Harvest

Mike says this has been an “interesting” year. In the 1980s the wine tourists would visit a winery and buy a case. Now the consumer has changed and a new generation wants a story, an experience and a photo op. Then, maybe, they buy a bottle, not a case. That is why this show is so important because the market is going through a great transition. People’s ability to appreciate the best wine depends on good information. As Mike says, change is inevitable. Wine sales are down but it is cyclical, but wine is getting better and better every year, says Dan.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

This year’s harvest is completed. The harvest has gone well, for Mike. The heat spells were stressful but the job is done. The vineyard demands 12 months of work all year, but the action happens in the three weeks at harvest time. Dan points out that a vineyard can be changed a little at a time, such as making adjustments to trellises. They are located on Barlow Lane at the intersection with Occidental Road.

Harvest Fair Winners with Dan Berger

Mon, 14 Oct 2024 23:23:41 +0000

Dan Berger is in the studio today with Sonoma County Harvest Fair Winners on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon. Dan Berger had decades of experience as a wine judge and he was a judge in this year’s Sonoma County Harvest Fair competition. He describes the new organization this year, where the judges only had 25 or 30 of one type of wine, instead of 55 or 60 of the same type. Dan likes this because the judges can get tired on too much of the same varietal. So, with a limited exposure to a single type of wine, the palette has a chance to regenerate. Also, the judging of each type is more spread out across all the judges.

What is the difference between a Gold Medal and a Sweepstakes? asks Steve. The Sweepstakes is a second round, more like a final round taste-off, where different varietals are against each other. This can be more difficult to understand. Dan says take it with a grain of salt. Gold Medal is good enough as a winning designation.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

The 2023 Hanna Sauvignon Blanc is the Sweepstakes winner. Jeff Hinchliffe made it at Hanna. It is from Russian River Valley. There is not a lot of Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc available because Jeff has been contracting for all the best fruit. Not only does it smell and taste right for the variety. Instead of favoring the strong herbaceous components, he favors the tropical fruit. It is rich with a great aftertaste. It sells for about $20 but Bottle Barn has it for $13.99. Bottle Barn has all he award-winning wines in the store, with the awards listed on the wine display.

Shone Farm

Next is a 2022 Shone Farm wine, made by the students at SRJC. It is 13.9% ABV, so lower than average. It has fruit and spice flavors. The vineyard has been in the ground for 35 years. It’s a wine of personality, it is balanced with structure and good acidity.

It is remarkable that the students at SRJC have won a Gold Medal for their wine, in competition with all the other great winemakers in Sonoma County.

Barry Herbst on Harvest Fair

Fri, 4 Oct 2024 23:23:01 +0000

Barry Herbst is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger to talk about Harvest Fair Winners available at Bottle Barn. Barry is a frequent guest and his last time on the show was this episode last December to talk about sparkling wines. He has brought some winning wines from this year’s Harvest Fair.

This year there were two little late heat waves and harvest was hectic. There were whites and reds coming into the wineries all at once. The Sonoma County Harvest Fair wine winners have been published on the website. The Sweepstakes winners will be announced at the event, Saturday Oct. 12. Then there will be another episode of this show with more of those winning wines.

Dan Berger, Wine Judge

Dan Berger served as one of the judges. The competition is entirely for Sonoma County. The judges are all locals or people with a long history of association with Sonoma County wines. Also, they have more time to evaluate the wines. Deborah del Fiorentino does a great job running the competition.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They taste the Capo Isetta Rosé that won a double Gold Medal. Three of their wines won medals. This wine sells for $15.99 per bottle. The grapes are Pinot Noir from Carneros and is fairly dry. Barry says that given the rising price of grapes, it is harder and harder to get Rosés for less than $20. Everyone understands that good quality Pinot Noir grapes are expensive and are mostly going to making reds.

The firstHarvest Fair was in 1975 and today it is one of the premier regional wine competitions in the country. Dan appreciates the organization that gave the judges plenty of time and also a rotation of wines, so they did not get tired of any of them.

Black Kite Cellars, Tom Birdsall

Fri, 27 Sep 2024 23:23:10 +0000

Dan and Tom.

Tom Birdsall, owner of Black Kite Cellars, is our guest on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is Tom’s first time on the show however their winemaker Jeff Gaffner was on the show on this episode of March 11, 2020.

Black Kite Cellars began when Tom and his wife Rebecca went on a cycling tour through Burgundy. They were just consumers of wine at that time. Then in the late 1990s his wife’s father bought a vineyard in Anderson Valley and planted the 12 acres to Pinot. Not all the fruit was sold. He had some leftover grapes in 2003 and found a winery, Handley Cellars, to produce some wine from that harvest. Then Rebecca made the plan started Black Kite Cellars as a small family-owned winery. Tom mentions that they were lucky to find Jeff Gaffney to be the winemaker, right at the beginning. Now they are specialized in Sonoma Coast and Anderson Valley. The coast has weather conditions perfect for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. They begin by tasting a Chardonnay that Dan calls “substantial” and “opulent.”

The Black Kite or White-tailed Kite

The Black Kite is a bird, a small hawk, which is Rebecca’s father’s favorite bird. The local was known as the black-shouldered kite, now known as the white-tailed kite. Dan mentions that this bird is good at controlling voles and mice which can wreck vines. Another word for this bird is “angel hawk” which winemaker Jeff Gaffner remembers calling it. This is because of the way they hover over the land while hunting. So Angel Hawk became the name of their reserve label.

They only make about 3000 cases per year and they are in local shops and restaurants. They also now have a new tasting room in the town of Freestone. It is small but very well appointed. It is also right at the corner of the vineyard. They are open 7 days a week and they prefer appointments. The West Sonoma Coast, the newest appellation in the county, is their specialty. Their current production is eight Pinot Noirs and four Chardonnays. The wine they are tasting is a Pinot from Roberts Road vineyard, in Petaluma Gap, that the Sangiacomo family owns.

Longboard Vineyards

Fri, 20 Sep 2024 23:23:28 +0000

Oded Shakked, owner of Longboard Vineyards, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. He has been on the show before. His last appearance was this episode on November 17, 2023. He has a long history of making high quality wines from his small properties.

He grew up surfing in Israel and then, looking for good waves, he went to surf the Atlantic beaches. In France, he discovered wine, then he heard about UC Davis, came to study in the program and, “never looked back.” He had a series of winemaking jobs and started his own vineyard

On West Side Road he has about five acres where he grows about 40% of the grapes he uses at Longboard. His neighbors are the Rocchioli family, and their famous vineyard. He feels lucky that they sell some grapes to him. As neighbors, their kids played sports together.

Visit Chigazola Merchants online to shop their unique selection of fine Italian wines.

They begin tasting the Rocchioli Vineyard Chardonnay. He wants people to consider aging this white wine. A well-made white wine, not over-oaked and doesn’t have residual sugar, it gets a “sun-dried linen” character, as one of his professors described it.

They also taste a Syrah, which reminds Dan that all these wines need some time in the bottle. Wines are like cakes in the oven, says Oded. You have to have patience for the wine to develop complexity. Dan says that if you open it and taste it two days later, it can also open up a lot.

They have a cellar, a lounge and vineyard in Healdsburg. The place used to be the Magnolia Cannery, then it was Clos du Bois winery, and later under other brands. Oded says his job title could be “vinegar stopper” because wine will occur naturally and also turn quickly to vinegar if you’re not careful. You can actually observe their cellar operations and get close to the process.

Dan Berger Harvest Time Selections

Fri, 30 Aug 2024 23:23:52 +0000

Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger.

Dan Berger is back on California Wine Country after some vacation travel and today he joins Steve Jaxon with some thoughts about harvest time and some wines to taste.

Dan Berger and Steve Jaxon will talk about harvest time today and taste some wines that Dan has brought. We were going to have Deborah Del Fiorentino on to talk about her organization of wine competitions including the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. But we will have to reschedule her. In the meantime, Dan Berger has brought some wines from his extensive personal cellar.

This year Spring was cool and the vines matured more slowly than usual. It took a long time for the vines to come out of hibernations. Then, after bud break, we had come brutally warm weather, then cool again. There wasn’t enough rain to do any damage. Then late summer, we had 100 degree days but much colder at night, which favors retention of acid.

Growers and winemakers are facing a choice. Either pick early, save acidity and hope for flavor, or pick late and need to adjust later. With all the variables in play, Dan says, “…it will be a chicken with three legs.”

https://calwinecountry.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Buddy-Hackett-3-leg-Chick.mp3

Here is a California Wine Country bonus track, it’s Buddy Hackett on Carson in the ‘70s on the subject of a 3-legged chicken.

Some Chardonnay and Pinot Noir will be harvested early. But if you are a winery purchasing fruit from a grower for the first time, “…you’re on your own,” says Dan. The decision of when to pick may also be affected by a labor shortage.

They taste a vineyard-designated Pinot Noir from Etude Vineyards, grown at Hallberg vineyards.

Dennis McCarter

Fri, 23 Aug 2024 23:23:27 +0000

Dennis McCarter, owner and winemaker of McCarter Cellars, is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. This is his second time as a guest on CWC, the last time was this episode back in January of this year. Dan Berger is away again this week and Melissa Galliani joins us in the studio.

Dennis tells about having taken a course at SRJC about pairing wine and food, which left him with the desire to start making wine. He started by making five gallons of Barbera in his garage. As he continued to make wine, he started winning awards, so he decided to go pro. That coincided with his transition out of the insurance business.

The 2022 Sauvignon Blanc came from Rogers vineyard in Dry Creek Valley. The location is on the cooler side of the area.

Dennis eventually finished enology studies at SRJC. His wines started winning awards right away. They continue to win recently. The inaugural Pinot Noir earned 98 points and took best of class at the North Coast Wine Challenge, sponsored by the Press Democrat and his Gewürztraminer took silver there. His Rosé, Pinkish, took a gold medal at Experience Rosé challenge.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Dennis is involved in a group of American Vintners that meets quarterly. He is also on the board of the Sonoma Library Foundation, to do fund raising. With them, he helped organize Tasting Diversity, where they hosted events to raise exposure for African-American owned wineries. For more information about Tasting Diversity, visit this page at the Sonoma Library Foundation and scroll down to the middle of the page where it is listed among their other events.

Discount Code

There is a discount code WINERADIO for listeners to get 15% off.

Dennis has accomplished a lot as a winemaker after only two years. His Gewurtztraminer is tasty and Dennis attributes its success to his method that includes he and his wife pressing the grapes with their own feet. His favorite wines to make are Pinot Noir and Zin, and aromatic whites like Gewurtztraminer.

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McCarter Cellars will have a tasting room by the end of the year, in a location across from where Carol Shelton Wines is located. Wait for news by the end of harvest season. That is starting to get busy now.

Winesong! 2024

Fri, 16 Aug 2024 23:23:33 +0000

Dan, Janice and Jamie.

Janis McDonald and Jamie Peters are here to talk about Winesong! 2024 on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Winesong! takes place Sept. 6-7, 2024 at the Little River Inn. It is the annual fund raiser for the Mendocino Coast Healthcare Foundation.

First, Dan Berger has brought a cellar wine, as he usually does. This is a 2007 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc. He normally doesn’t age this wine so long, but at 17 years it is “yummy” with a little green apple flavor. Usually a SV will age 6 or 7 years.The event this year is at the Little River Inn. It is two days of wine tasting, auctions and music, over the weekend of September 6 and 7.

Winesong! Began in 1985 as a small wine tasting in a parking lot and grew year after year. It has always been a benefit for health care on the north coast.

Winesong! is a Spectacular Scene

Dan Berger has been going to this event for a long time. The wineries that participate are specialized in making very high quality wine. The scenery is also spectacular on the site and all around in the area.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

For several years Winesong has been in the botanical garden. That location is being reorganized and they hope to return there as early as next year. There is a strong sense of community at this event. Friends see each other there every year. Everyone enjoys supporting the Mendocino hospital and health care facilities.

There are two musical groups. Tenor Madness, a jazz band, plays Friday. On Saturday a rock cover band called the Casper Kings will play hits from the 80s and later.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

Dan Berger notes that over the last 5 years, Anderson Valley wines have improved tremendously. So have Mendocino wines, generally, in the last decade.

The tasting and the music, the food, all on Saturday. But Friday afternoon is the Pinot Noir celebration. It used to be just Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs but since 2015 they have opened it to other regions that make Pinot Noir, like Willamette, the Sonoma Coast and Central Coast.

One thing that Dan appreciates about Winesong is that you get a chance to taste excellent wines from producers that you have never heard of before.

The Return of Winemaker Carol Shelton

Fri, 9 Aug 2024 21:23:41 +0000

Winemaker Carol Shelton is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. CWC co-host Dan Berger is away this week. Carol is one of our most distinguished winemakers and a regular on this show. Her last time here was last January, in this episode with Dan Berger and with Harry Duke sitting in for Steve Jaxon.

Carol Shelton graduated from UC Davis in 1978. This year will be her 48th harvest, and her 25th harvest for her own brand. There were a few years where she worked on two harvests in a year, in the northern and southern hemisphere. Carol Shelton worked for Mondavi, in Australia, in the Central Valley, for Rodney Strong for 20 years, for the Windsor Wines label.

Zinfandel is her favorite varietal. It makes up about 70% of her production now. She wanted to show the world that Zin could be as noble a grape as Pinot and Cab. Old vines of Zin have a unique concentration of flavor.

Wild Thing

Carol Shelton Wines is located in a business park on Coffey Lane. This weekend she will be bottling a port that has been in the barrels since 2015. She calls it Tawny Sonoma. You can’t use the name Port anymore. That is the same as other geographical names that are protected like Sherry and Burgundy.

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The name Wild Thing for her Zinfandel made with naturally occurring yeast, happened almost accidentally. There was one barrel that was not inoculated with yeast, and they put the words “wild thing” on the barrel. When they put it on a bottle, it sold like hotcakes. So that is how the brand was born. It was in the Top 100 Wines in the Wine Spectator, along with two other of her wines. There is also a 2023 Wild Thing Chardonnay which they are tasting. There is a little Viogner blended in, to give it some tropical notes. It is unusual, in that it is neither the steely type nor the buttery type. There are actually about 8 yeasts, each one brings some different flavors and she blends them all together before bottling.

They even source some fruit from Southern California, from Cucamonga. Their vines are over 100 years old. They are old vines that are knee high with roots running 50 feet down.

Coquille Blanc

They also taste a Coquille Blanc, which is named for shellfish, and reflects her family coat of arms which has shells on it, for the name Shelton. The fruit all comes from Paso Robles.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Carol describes a game that her mother played with her. She set up blind tastings of different herbs and she had to describe the flavors and identify them. She liked the combination of art and science in winemaking.

Then they taste the Rendez-Vous 2023 Rosé. “My Rosé is not one of those wimpy pale ones.” All the flavor is in the skin and this one spends 2 days on the skins. It is a rather dark red, for a Rosé and goes well with any kind of food. Modeled after a French Tavel Rosé, it is made of Carignane grapes.

Winemaker Dan Barwick

Fri, 2 Aug 2024 23:23:06 +0000

Winemaker Dan Barwick with Melissa Galliani.

Winemaker Dan Barwick is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Dan is the winemaker at Trecini Winery. He has been on CWC before, the most recent was this other episode recorded on Aug. 25, 2023. Our regular co-host Dan Berger is on vacation this week.

Right away Steve Jaxon is loving Dan Barwick’s Sauvignon Blanc. It’s made with all Sonoma County fruit, mostly Russian River. It has rich flavors of apricot and mango. “Easy to drink,” says Dan.

Trecini has been bottling wine for 25 years. Dan took several courses at UC Davis and at Santa Rosa Junior College in winemaking including courses from Rich Thomas. He was at the forefront of changing viticulture in Sonoma County in ways which improved the quality of Sonoma County wines. He taught that you had to be in the vineyard to get to understand the vines. This helps him make decisions about pruning and harvesting.

Sauvignon Blanc

Dan says that Sauvignon Blanc is his favorite wine to make. He can make blends with fruit from different vineyards, to assemble the flavors he wants. It’s hard to believe that such a good wine sells for $15. In addition to Sauvignon Blanc, Trecini also makes Chardonnay, Russian River Pinot Noir and Merlot, too.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

Dan Barwick recently visited Croatia, staying in a town called Rovinj. The wine and food and the whole scene was incredibly beautiful. Dan suggests everyone put Croatia on the bucket list. It is on the coast so there is a lot of seafood. The local olive oil is very fine. A delicious glass of local wine will cost 2 or 3 dollars.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Dan Barwick talks about his early experience working in the food hall at Harrod’s in London, where he was exposed to all the best of everything, including wine. The chocolates were right next to the wine department. He worked there from the age of 18 to 27.

Williams Selyem winemaker Jeff Mangahas

Fri, 26 Jul 2024 23:23:32 +0000

Williams Selyem winemaker Jeff Mangahas is back on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger. Jeff has been on CWC as recently as last February on this episode, and previously here in 2021 and before that, on this episode from 2018.

Wine Country Radio GM Melissa Galliani has brought a bottle of Dry Creek Chenin Blanc. Dry Creek is a sponsor of the KRSH Backyard Concert Series and their Chenin Blanc is a popular favorite. “Really refreshing,” says Jeff.

Williams Selyem has a rich history as one of the original Russian River Valley producers. Their first commercial release was in 1981. They have been making interesting, small-production wines in Russian River Valley and other nearby regions.

Williams Selyem: Russian River Valley Pioneers

Williams Selyem worked with the growers in Russian River Valley, such as the Rocchioli and Martinelli vineyards. They produce 52 different wines, in small lots. The are not easy to get so the way to buy them is through the website.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Jeff Mangahas joined Williams Selyem in 2011 and took over winemaking and viticulture in 2014. This year is his 24th vintage.

They taste the 2022 Estate Chardonnay. They are also well-known for Pinot Noir and Zin. This Chardonnay is unique because it has 20 different Chardonnay clones all planted together in the field. It presents all the different flavors that are present in the different clones and it makes for a complex wine.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

Jeff’s history as a winemaker started with his interest in science and biology. He majored in molecular and cellular biology at University of Washington. He was interested in research science and worked in cancer research. Wine was a hobby. He moved back east to Princeton University to work in the molecular biology department there. The change to wine as a profession was a romantic idea that he made happen by going to UC Davis for a Masters in Enology.

Dan Berger would keep this wine for no more than 2 or 3 years to get it in the glass before the fruit flavors fade.

Jeff tells about how they still use foot treading to press some grapes because there is no better method to get the results that he wants.

Kevin Bersofsky, Montagne Russe, Petaluma Gap

Fri, 19 Jul 2024 23:23:46 +0000

Kevin Bersofsky from Montagne Russe Wines joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. He has been on CWC before, most recently on this episode of August 3, 2022.

On Saturday August 10, the Wind to Wine festival is at the Gambonini Family Ranch in Petaluma.

They start by tasting a sparkling wine that Kevin Bersofsky has made. Dan calls it “a very serious bubbly.” It’s a Brut Rosé and it is very dry. The flavors are fruity but not sweet.

The Petaluma Gap was designated as an AVA in 2017. Kevin was using vineyards that were there before the AVA became official, like Springhill Ranch, Roberts Road, Gap’s Crown, Terra de Promissio, Keller Estates, Sunchase, Night Wing, …

Montagne Russe

Montagne Russe is the French, Italian and Spanish word for a Roller-Coaster. It literally means “Russian Mountains” because it was russian impresarios who brought ice to Paris and used it to decorate their roller coaster attractions.

It can be in the 90s in the Petaluma Gap area, but by evening the wind comes in and it can be 20 degrees cooler. It blows in from Bodega Bay, off the sea. There are only two places that have east-west valleys that produce great wine, Santa Barbara County and Petaluma Gap.

Dan says that the Petaluma Gap wines all have good structure because the acidity is strong. The grapes don’t ripen as fast, so by staying on the vine they build up acidity. The average wind speed is 8 MPH faster in the gap than anywhere else in Sonoma County. The grapes like to cool down.

The Gambonini Family Ranch will be the host of the Wind to Wine festival, with food music, wine talks and 30 or more Petaluma Gap wineries pouring wines.

Dan’s favorite Syrahs come from northern Victoria in Australia. They don’t even import them to the US, but Dan Berger has some in his estensive personal cellar.

The next wine they taste is the Montagne Russe 2021 Pinot Noir from the Roberts Road vineyard. Kevin knows that this is a vineyard that always makes good wine. Dan gets traces of cherry and also pomegranate. Steve likes the neologism Nutmeggy.

Dan explains how the Sonoma Coast appellation was too varied and needed better definition. So the Petaluma Gap AVA was truly unique and deserved to be created.

Justin Seidenfeld, Rodney Strong winemaker

Fri, 12 Jul 2024 23:23:18 +0000

Melissa Galliani, Dan Berger & Justin Seidenfeld.

Justin Seidenfeld, Rodney Strong head winemaker, joins Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger on California Wine Country. Justin Seidenfeld has been on CWC a few times, most recently on this episode of April 27, 2022.

They begin tasting a brand new wine that they just launched on June 1st. It is a single vineyard 2023 Sauvignon Blanc from one of their estate vineyards called Bud’s Ranch. Justin modelled this wine after a Bordeaux style, it is richer than the usual SV. 55% made in large oak barrels, then the rest is done in stainless steel. Dan says it is aimed at being ready to drink now and also to be held in the cellar.

2023 was an interesting vintage, it was cooler than average, which gives the wines structure without being tart. There is just enough acidity to have balance. They also use a rotating egg-shaped vessel for mixing during fermentation, which gives it lees contact.

Justin started in 2005 at Iron Horse Vineyards while still going to school at UC Davis. Then he worked at Robert Mondavi before coming to Rodney Strong.

Rodney Strong had the thirteenth bonded winery in California. He did a lot of firsts, like planting Chardonnay in Chalk Hill and makin the first Alexander Valley single vineyard Cabernet. He was also a founder of the Russian River Valley and Chalk Hill AVAs. Justin Seidenfeld helped drive the approval of the Petaluma Gap AVA.

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Dan Berger started writing about wine in 1976, working for the Los Angeles Herald-Examiner. He had a very informative 2-hour lunch interview with Rodney Strong that year.

1158 Acres of Vineyards

Rodney Strong winery is now owned by the Klein family and now owns 12 vineyard sites with 1158 acres total. It is critical to their success to have control over the vineyards as well as production. Dan Berger notices the flavor of fresh-cut new-mown hay in this Sauvignon Blanc which makes it unique.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

Rodney Strong is famous for its Cabernets and for its Chalk Hill Chardonnay. They also make a very good Pinot Noir, all from Russian River Valley. Their Alexander Valley Estate Cabernet retails for about $20. Justin says it punches above its weight, at that price. They literally buy their barrels as trees in France. That and the fact that they own their vineyards means their retail price is modest, they can focus on quality and evolve. They have just finished rennovating their vineyards and are ready for generations in the future.

August 24 is the Single Vineyard Dinner, when they release their top wines. They taste one that is a 2019 100% single vineyard Cabernet, which is a demonstration of terroir. The 3 wines to be revealed on August 24 are similar except for their vineyard location so they taste differently.

As Justin describes, Rodney Strong’s intention is to surprise and delight.

Darryl Miller, Dehlinger Winery

Fri, 5 Jul 2024 23:23:48 +0000

Dan and Darryl.

Darryl Miller, Dehlinger Winery rep, is back in the studio on California Wine Country with Steve Jaxon and Dan Berger today. He has been a guest on CWC twice before, on this episode on August 26, 2020 and again on July 20, 2022.

Dan Berger describes Darryl Miller as, “…one of the good guys.” Darry has been in the wine business for more than 50 years. The Dehlinger winery has been around since the 1970s. It was one of the first vineyards to be planted in western Sonoma County in 1975 in an area that was mostly apple orchards. Tom Dehlinger is still involved in the winery but his daughters are running it. Darryl was hired to represent Dehlinger in the marketplace. It is rare to find wines that have such character, says Dan Berger.

The area was cooler in the 1970s than today. Tom Dehlinger worked carefully in the vineyard in order to keep high acidity in the wines, so they are consistent. Almost all the Chardonnay planted on the Dehlinger vineyard is the Wente clone. They begin tasting the 2021 estate Chardonnay.

Click the logo to visit Davis Bynum Wines.

Dehlinger Chardonnay

The Chardonnay is deep and rich, with acidity in the aftertaste and has a long finish. A lot of other Chards are sweeter. Dehlinger Winery has control over all aspects of the farming and production.

Darryl Miller started in Seattle in the restaurant business 50 years ago where he was working as a waiter. Their wine steward suggested that he knew enough about wine to be successful in wine sales. He started working nights in the restaurant and days “on the street.” Then in 1981 he started his own company as a broker and he worked with some of the greatest brands at the time.

Click the logo to visit our sponsor Rodney Strong for info on the 2024 Summer Concert series.

Dan Berger knows that property and describes it as being on a slight hill. The soils do change from place to place. In one area, there is gray Goldridge soil. In another area, there is brown Altamont soil. They are one of the few areas that has some Altamont soil. Every block ripens at a different pace. Every vine has a number and they harvest individual areas to make sure each vine is harvested at the right time.

Dehlinger was also one of the first wineries to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Sonoma County.

The Dehlinger vineyard house.